Marina Moscone Spring 2021 at New York Fashion Week
The Marina Moscone Spring 2021 collection emerges from the designer’s observations of women in New York City over the past few months. Moscone felt that the moment called for the idea of pragmatic dressing – clothing that’s easy to wear, but not disposable; luxuriously easy, stripped of artifice, and made to the highest standard.
With the studio and atelier working from home this past spring, Moscone began to think of the bigger picture. This context forced a reckoning of sorts on how best to pursue designing a meaningful collection for her smart and intelligent woman, spurring an unanticipated creative starting point. Through this newly developed process, a sense of joy and optimism emerged.
At the core of the collection is the idea of an undone t-shirt, but seen through the lens of the MM brand. The exploded t-shirts, each rendered in alabaster and navy granite crepe feature a densely knit rib neckline and sleeve trim in coral and black.
Several house signatures are re-interpreted for the season. The twisting technique appears along the décolleté, providing some tension to a new halter neckline. Tailoring is sculptural and architectural, cut in lengths and silhouettes that recall the 60’s.
Hand-woven textiles are another central theme using techniques initially developed for Resort, now reinterpreted and refined. Woven panels are cut into vertical patches to create patchwork tunics. Yarns are repurposed from archived cashmeres, silks, cottons, and merino wool. Weaving also appears throughout the accessories, jewelry, and knitwear, marrying the materials with the silhouettes in the collection.
Knits this season comprise marled short-sleeve polo shirts and sleeveless polo dresses; machine knitted to create a modernized crochet effect. A sixties-inspired polo tunic in red cotton with a knit black yoke, collar and placket features hand-painted leather buttons.
Artistic influences include Marisa Merz, the only recognized female artist of the Arte Povera movement whose palette of citrine, pale aqua, bronze, and alabaster contrasted with notes of geranium, coral, blush, and sun-bleached blue. Industrial artist Christopher Rucker’s patchwork furniture and quilts provide a graphic and textural point of inspiration. Dancer and choreographer Pina Bausch, whose modern artistry embodied the tension between the feminine and masculine, reflects a similar dialogue within the collection.
The environment of Georgia O’Keefe, as well as the abstract, organic shapes in the work of Alberto Burri were the collective starting points to the hand-sculpted clay jewelry, accessories, and accents on the footwear.
Grounding the collection are two shoe styles inspired by ballet slippers, rendered in plongé leather in the collection’ colors.
Marking this season is the first film created by the brand. “Marina Moscone Spring 2021”, directed by Nian Fish, will debut on Tuesday, September 15th at 10:30am at Runway360. The short film is a look into the designer’s private life and vision and invites the viewer in for a glimpse at her at work and home.
Spring 2021 marks the last season before the brand shifts to a pre-collection show cycle.
Official Website: marinamoscone.com