Nicola Brognano’s second runway outing for the Los Angeles denim house arrives wearing last night’s clothes, and that is entirely the point
The shirt is too big. That is the first thing the eye registers in the opening looks of 7 For All Mankind‘s Spring 2027 collection, where an oversized poplin button-down swallows the torso while a slim pinstriped waistcoat pins it back into line. The trousers are narrow, cropped at the mid-calf and finished with a heavy platform pump. Nothing about the proportions is accidental. Everything about them is slightly wrong.
The Impression’s gallery of the show, presented during New York Fashion Week in September 2026, carries a review score of 8.6. The number fits a collection that knows which codes it wants to break and which ones it wants to keep.
Brognano’s thesis reads as a takeover of the corporate uniform. Pinstripe suiting, the most obedient cloth in menswear, gets twisted into distorted waistcoats with white trim sitting where lapels should not be, then cut short into a matching mini skirt. A single-breasted pinstripe blazer lands over a jersey tank and denim micro shorts that let their white pocket linings hang below a frayed hem. A tuxedo blazer with satin-faced lapels opens onto a pink lace bralette. A cream blazer, shoulders padded wide and single-buttoned, sits above black cropped trousers and a mint green crocodile-embossed handbag. The blazer is still a blazer. It has just stopped pretending to be respectable.
Denim does the rest of the work, and it does it close to the body. Jeans are low-slung, skinny and cropped, a direct revival of the silhouette that made the brand a phenomenon in the early 2000s and then fell out of favor for a decade. One pair in washed indigo runs with a fine white pinstripe through the weave. A charcoal denim micro skirt is split across the front thigh by a horizontal zipper left half open. Raw hems, exposed pocket bags and tiered panels cut from shredded horizontals keep the finish deliberately unfinished.
Underneath all of it sits lingerie. Lace bralettes surface above necklines and through unbuttoned tailoring. A black slip dress and an off-white tiered mini both layer over visible bras. A black bodysuit printed with the 7FAM logo appears beneath an open leather vest with architectural shoulders and a skirt built from raw-edged tiers. The effect is not exposure for its own sake. It reads as a woman who left the house in a hurry and never once checked the mirror.
The accessories carry the collection’s loudest arguments. Crocodile-embossed leather shows up in red, black, mint, purple and chocolate, almost always as a structured tote with long looping straps and a swinging luggage tag. Studded belts cinch low on the hips, sometimes two at a time. Long narrow ties and skinny printed scarves are knotted at the throat and left to trail, a trick repeated so often that it hardens into a signature. Platform peep-toe pumps, mules and pointed heels arrive in mahogany, nude, violet and hot pink. Chunky gold curb chains and gold-framed aviator sunglasses finish the picture.
Then the shoes go flat. Flip-flops pad out beneath sheer chiffon tunics, crochet dresses and ruffle-tiered minis, several of them carrying a thin red strap. It is the most subversive gesture in the show. After a runway of towering heels, the woman kicks them off and keeps walking.
Brognano, who led Blumarine from 2020 to 2023 and won the Who Is On Next? prize in 2016, was named creative director of 7 For All Mankind in 2025. His debut for the house walked in February 2026 and marked the brand’s first fashion show in its history. Spring 2027 is the follow-up, and for a Los Angeles label founded in 2000, the ambition is plain. Denim anchors an entire wardrobe here rather than a single category.
The closing looks make that case quietly. A collared navy cardigan over a white T-shirt, relaxed straight-leg jeans, black leather boots and a Yankees cap. No distortion, no deconstruction, just the clothes the rest of the show has been pulling apart. Brognano understands the difference between a wardrobe and a stunt. Spring 2027 wants both, and mostly gets them.
See the complete collection below:
Images courtesy of 7 For All Mankind
In another NYFW SS27 collection: Ralph Lauren Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at New York Fashion Week
