Milan Fashion Week’s Fall 2026 season opened with undeniable electricity at Gucci, where artistic director Demna presented his debut collection for the house. Titled Primavera, the lineup drew direct inspiration from Sandro Botticelli’s masterpiece at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence—a painting that left the designer profoundly moved and set the tone for a presentation brimming with renewal.
Kering CEO Luca de Meo captured the optimism before the show, stating, “I have a good feeling, it’s one the great brands, it just needs to be revived.” The former Milan fairgrounds had been transformed into a monumental venue reminiscent of a museum, complete with classic marble statues crowning tiered rows that echoed ancient Greek and Roman theaters. The design paid homage to Demna’s Florence visit and his conviction that “above the product, Gucci is culture, it is a way of thinking and a way of being.”
Demna also highlighted the brand’s particular resonance with Gen Z, describing it as synonymous with “being flamboyant, having fun, going out, being crazy doing stuff.” He found this context deeply inspiring, noting that few other houses could embody it so naturally.
Front-row energy ran high. Donatella Versace and Alessandro Michele chatted and smiled together, while Demi Moore cradled her chihuahua Pilaf and Shawn Mendes took in the scene. After the finale, Demna shared in the post-show moment, “I hope I made you feel Gucci today because that was my main purpose, to feel the energy, the passion, the fun, the sexy.” He succeeded on every level.
Body-Conscious Openers and Renaissance Ideals
The show began to the staccato pulse of “Sopratutto” by Nicolini. The first exit—a seamless skinny minidress in white hosiery fabric that clung to the body—served as a crisp introduction. Immediately after came a powerfully built male model in a white sleeveless T-shirt and pants, his physique a living tribute to classical proportion. In his press notes, Demna wrote of “his chiseled Adonis looks that speak to Renaissance ideals of proportionality and physique,” crediting the house’s technical achievement in seamless garments: cut as close as possible to the body, with invisible heat-sealed edges and engineered curved hems.
Diverse Silhouettes, Seductive Confidence
Demna celebrated a wide spectrum of body shapes, heights, and ages throughout the 83 looks. Karlie Kloss and Kate Moss closed the show, the latter in a dramatic backless black gown from which a sparkling white gold GG thong—set with 10 carats of diamonds—peeked with unmistakable confidence. The moment recalled Tom Ford’s va-va-voom legacy yet felt distinctly amplified under Demna’s hand. Subtle references to Alessandro Michele also surfaced, including the Princetown furry slippers.
A pronounced sensual current ran through the entire collection. Backstage, Demna reflected on its personal significance: “very liberating, I finally allowed myself to do that. It’s also because of my relationship with my body, the way I see myself. I want to feel sexy, I want to feel attractive, and I want to like myself.
There is so much more I haven’t done because I didn’t want to get closer to my body, to the emotional aspect of it. For 10 years, I was trying to impress myself, to be smart, and at Gucci, I realized I can create an emotional rather than intellectual fashion—either you love it or not, but it opened a huge new scope of possibilities in terms of creative vision. Feeling attractive, seductive—it’s part of human nature, and I want to put it out there. It’s something we need.”
Archetypes for Day and Beyond
Building on his earlier La Famiglia project, Demna introduced a full cast of archetypes designed to speak to both loyal clients and new audiences. Leggings and tracksuits sat comfortably alongside fluid, tailored suits in liquid-like fabrics, featuring low-cut jackets and trousers with horizontal pockets.
The soundtrack, curated across five genres by Loki, shifted seamlessly with each chapter. A more romantic sequence arrived to the sound of “Milan” by August, showcasing pleated floral dresses that echoed Primavera’s botanical spirit, worn beneath mock-fur bubble blousons or as strapless, bustier-like furry tops, for a polished, ladylike mood.
Vittoria Ceretti delivered pure chic in a dark ankle-length coat layered over a black turtleneck and slim leather pants finished with a gold GG logo belt. The house’s signature Flora motif, created by artist Vittorio Accornero in 1966 for Grace Kelly, reappeared on a graceful silk slipdress.
After-Dark Glamour and Party Energy
Nighttime brought unapologetic celebration. Emily Ratajkowski embodied the moment in a sparkling minidress and stiletto pumps, her entire presence part of the character. Waist-high slit gowns offered risqué drama, paired with embroidered and sparkling two-piece sets of loose pants and navel-grazing tops for men, all worn barefoot.
True to Gucci’s heritage, accessories claimed their rightful spotlight. Nearly every look featured a bag, led by an updated Bamboo 1947 in a sleeker volume with a flexible handle crafted from pieced leather sections. Rejuvenated archival minaudières stood ready for evening essentials. Footwear highlights included supple leather boots, Demna’s first Gucci sneaker—the Manhattan—and the Giovanni and Cupertino loafers.
A selection of pieces from the collection was made available in select Gucci stores and online immediately following the show.
In a letter posted to social media the day before, Demna wrote, “Gucci is a superbrand that is as much about pragmatic product as it is about emotion.” Across 83 looks, he proved exactly that—delivering a collection rich in feeling, technical mastery, and unmistakable Gucci spirit. The house has not only awakened; it has stepped forward with fresh confidence and undeniable joy.
See the full collection below:
Images Courtesy of Gucci
in other Milan Fashion Week news: Diesel Fall/Winter 2026: Glenn Martens’ Archive at Milan Fashion Week
