TAUS presented its spring-summer 2027 collection Aug. 3 at Møstings Hus in Copenhagen, showing as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NEWTALENT One to Watch program presented by Pandora. Creative directors Freyja Taus and Juho Lehiö framed the collection as an ode to the moment between late night and early morning, described in house materials as dewy, mysterious, melancholic yet romantic. The presentation anchored the emerging-talent track of the week’s 20th-anniversary program, which runs through Aug. 7.
The presentation paired the runway with “GLITRA,” an exhibition by Norwegian artist Oscar Eriksson Furunes. The works present photographic fragments from queer communities across time and place, drawn from queer-historical archival photographs and cultural codes. Furunes said he explores the tension between the visible and the invisible, the persistent and the fleeting, the personal and the collective.
The collection sets TAUS signatures — upcycled materials, structured garments such as corsets and tailored jackets, and archival research — against lighter fabrications, new sensibilities and new colors. Upcycled pieces include a bar jacket in upcycled leather with a worn denim trompe l’oeil effect, a soft yet structured mini dress made from a single burnout velvet silk scarf, and a dress and skirt crafted from nightgowns with straps at the hem for alternative ways of wearing.
Structured tailoring and corsetry continue the brand’s focus on garment archetypes reworked through a contemporary lens, per house materials. Time and its visible marks recur throughout, whether in shapes drawn from archival research or in new pieces built from upcycled materials. The lighter fabrications and expanded palette mark a shift from the label’s earlier, more uniformly structured output.
Styling was by Louise Borchers at A-MGMT, with hair by Kasper Andersen at LundLund and makeup by Rikke Dengsø Jensen at Artists Unit, presented by BBeauty & Wellness using Boca Rosa Beauty, Adcos, Paisage and Herô Skin Beauty. Movement direction was by Thea Carla Schøtt, casting by Tuono Casting, and production support by Helen Bucher. Fabric House supplied fabric, Swedish Stockings provided hosiery, and guest management and press were handled by SVPR / Stina Vanessa.
Founded in 2024, TAUS positions itself on traditional ways of making reworked for the present, producing made-to-order and bespoke womenswear, accessories and bags. Garments are designed in Denmark and produced in the brand’s Copenhagen studio or by selected European artisans. The made-to-order model eliminates speculative production, aligning with the label’s stated commitment to minimizing waste.
The show marked TAUS’s third consecutive season in the One to Watch program, following SS26 and AW26; the brand previously showed SS25 and AW25 at the NEWTALENT showroom presented by Alpha. One to Watch brands receive a free presentation slot on the official schedule and a place in the NEWTALENT showroom at CIFF, designed to connect emerging labels with press and buyers.
The collection includes a collaboration with Danish jeweler Pandora, visible both in styling — with unique jewelry assemblies done by TAUS — and in three bespoke looks featuring Pandora surplus jewelry. Pandora serves as headline partner and patron of NEWTALENT for the third consecutive season, a program providing funding, mentorship and industry connections to Nordic brands under five years old. Pandora also partnered with Anne Sofie Madsen for SS27 and co-hosted the week’s opening gala at the Royal Danish Opera House.
“Fashion has always been shaped by new ideas and new voices,” Pandora CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier said in a statement ahead of the week. “Supporting emerging designers is an investment in the future of creativity.” De Pablos-Barbier said the company was “excited to see how Anne Sofie Madsen and TAUS interpret Pandora jewelry through their own creative perspectives this season.”
The collection is available for bespoke orders, with all pieces crafted in the TAUS Copenhagen studio. Pricing was not disclosed. The brand sells through tausstudio.com.
One to Watch recognition is awarded at the discretion of the Show & Presentation Committee to brands not yet fully ready for the NEWTALENT scheme; unlike NEWTALENT participants, One to Watch brands are not required to comply with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability requirements framework. The SS27 One to Watch honorees were TAUS, Sson and Renè, while Anne Sofie Madsen, Stem and Studio Constance — the program’s first Swedish label — took part in NEWTALENT proper.
For TAUS, the SS27 presentation consolidates a three-season ascent through کوپن ہیگن فیشن ویک‘s talent pipeline, from NEWTALENT showroom to a One to Watch runway slot. The Pandora partnership extends the label’s commercial exposure beyond its made-to-order base and into the jeweler’s global marketing. Whether the bespoke, upcycling-led model can scale into broader wholesale distribution is the open question as the brand approaches its fifth year and the end of NEWTALENT eligibility.
Images Courtesy of CPHFW
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