GmbH
2022년 봄
‘WHITE NOISE’’
Creative Directors Benjamin A. Huseby & Serhat Isik
Director Matt Lambert
Music LABOUR
As of 2026, GmbH's 'White Noise' collection is widely cited in fashion scholarship as a pivotal moment in the brand's exploration of identity, diaspora, and subcultural dressing, themes that continue to influence Berlin-based designers.
GmbH Spring 2022 'White Noise': Collection Overview and Concept
The GmbH Spring 2022 ‘White Noise’ collection represents one of the most considered and culturally layered presentations the Berlin-based label has delivered to date. Creative directors Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Isik channeled the concept of white noise as a metaphor for the relentless, often disorienting flood of information, imagery, and cultural signals that define contemporary life, particularly for individuals navigating identity across multiple cultural borders.
The film, directed by Matt Lambert and scored by LABOUR, functions as both a lookbook and a short cinematic work. Lambert, known for his intimate and often transgressive visual language, brings a raw documentary quality to the presentation that aligns naturally with GmbH’s longstanding commitment to representing queer communities, migrants, and subcultural figures who exist at the margins of mainstream fashion.
Garments in the collection reflect the label’s signature tension between utilitarian workwear silhouettes and sensual, body-conscious tailoring. Structured outerwear sits alongside draped knitwear and precision-cut trousers, while the color palette remains deliberately restrained, favoring off-whites, muted earth tones, and deep blacks that echo the static and monochrome associations of the collection’s title. The result is a visual language that feels both urgent and meditative, a rare balance in contemporary fashion communication.
The Cultural and Political Context Behind 'White Noise'
To understand GmbH Spring 2022 ‘White Noise’ fully, it is necessary to situate the collection within the broader cultural and political moment in which it was conceived. Huseby and Isik have consistently used their platform to interrogate how fashion participates in, challenges, or inadvertently reinforces systems of power. With ‘White Noise,’ the collection engages with the sensory overload of the post-pandemic media landscape and the way that constant digital noise can simultaneously amplify and obscure urgent conversations around race, migration, and belonging.
Both designers bring personal biographical contexts to this interrogation. Huseby, who is of South African and Norwegian heritage, and Isik, who has Turkish roots, have spoken openly in interviews about building a brand that centers bodies and identities that luxury fashion has historically sidelined. GmbH, which takes its name from the German business designation Gesellschaft mit beschraenkter Haftung (a form of limited liability company), uses corporate language as deliberate provocation, positioning the label as both insider and critic of the industries it inhabits.
By 2022, GmbH had earned significant recognition from the Council of Fashion Designers of America and had shown at Paris Fashion Week, giving the brand an international platform from which ‘White Noise’ could resonate across fashion communities well beyond Berlin’s club and subcultural scenes. Fashion scholars and critics have since cited this collection as evidence of the label’s expanding ambition without a corresponding dilution of its political commitments.
GmbH's Lasting Influence on Berlin-Based Fashion and Diaspora Dressing
As of 2026, GmbH Spring 2022 ‘White Noise’ occupies a notable position in both fashion scholarship and broader discourse around diaspora aesthetics and subcultural dressing. The collection is frequently referenced in academic writing on queer migrant identity in European fashion, and it has been cited by a new generation of Berlin-based designers as a touchstone for how to build a coherent visual identity rooted in lived experience rather than trend cycles.
The influence of ‘White Noise’ extends beyond the garments themselves. The format of the collection, released as a directed short film rather than a traditional runway presentation, contributed to an ongoing conversation about how independent labels can create compelling, globally distributed fashion content without the infrastructure of a major fashion house. Director Matt Lambert’s involvement reinforced GmbH’s position at the intersection of fashion, fine art, and underground film culture.
For readers of New York Style Guide and the broader international fashion community, the collection serves as a precise example of how European labels working outside the Paris-Milan-London axis can command global critical attention through consistent artistic vision and cultural specificity. GmbH’s work demonstrates that fashion can carry genuine intellectual and emotional weight, and ‘White Noise’ remains one of the clearest articulations of that ambition the label has produced.
