مشروع Y/ ربيع وصيف 22

رابط المصدر

Y/Project, under Glenn Martens, has since expanded its global footprint significantly, with the brand's signature deconstructed denim and collaborative releases continuing to resonate strongly through 2025 and into 2026.

Glenn Martens and the Vision Behind Y/Project SS22

The Y/Project Spring/Summer 2022 collection arrived as one of the most anticipated releases from Glenn Martens, the Belgian designer who has helmed the Paris-based label since 2013. By SS22, Martens had refined his signature language into something both intellectually rigorous and viscerally compelling. The collection built on his recurring preoccupations: structural deconstruction, illusions of layering, and garments that appear to be several pieces simultaneously worn.

Presented through a cinematic short film directed by Grégoire Dyer and styled by the celebrated Robbie Spencer, the collection eschewed the conventional runway format in favor of a considered visual narrative. This approach allowed Martens to control the precise atmosphere surrounding each look, framing his garments within a world of his own construction rather than surrendering them to the unpredictability of a live show.

Key silhouettes from the collection included exaggerated tailoring with multiplied collars, inside-out seam detailing, and the brand’s now-iconic denim constructions rendered in new proportions. The palette leaned into muted naturals punctuated by saturated color moments, giving the collection a tension between restraint and excess that had come to define the Y/Project aesthetic at its most confident.

Creative Collaborators: The Team That Shaped Y/Project SS22

The production of the Y/Project SS22 film was a genuinely collaborative effort, drawing together some of the most respected names working across fashion, film, and design at the time. Understanding who contributed and in what capacity gives fuller context to the final result.

• Direction: Grégoire Dyer brought a cinematic sensibility to the film, using composition and movement to foreground the architectural qualities of the garments.
• Styling: Robbie Spencer, a longtime collaborator within the international fashion film circuit, shaped the editorial logic of each look, ensuring the clothes read with clarity and conviction on screen.
• Set Design: Céline Corbineau constructed the visual environment, providing spatial context that complemented the collection’s structural themes.
• موسيقى: Senjan Jansen composed the score, grounding the film’s mood with a sonic identity consistent with Y/Project’s broader cultural positioning.
• Casting: Oliver Ress and Emmanuelle Delserieys at Creartvt selected a cast that reflected the brand’s commitment to diverse, expressive representation.
• الجمال: Make-up by Carole Colombani using L’Oreal Paris products, with hair by Ramona Eschbach, completed each look with a considered beauty direction.

The production company Division oversaw the full project, bringing the various creative departments into a cohesive whole that elevated the collection beyond product presentation into something closer to a short fashion film.

Y/Project's Lasting Influence from SS22 Through 2025

The Y/Project SS22 collection did not simply exist as a seasonal moment. It functioned as a crystallization of ideas that the brand has continued to develop and amplify in the years since its release. By the time Glenn Martens departed Y/Project in 2024, the visual and structural vocabulary established across collections including SS22 had left a demonstrable mark on how contemporary fashion approaches deconstruction, multi-wear dressing, and the relationship between the garment and the body.

The brand’s signature elements, particularly its deconstructed denim pieces and its multiplied-collar suiting, found their way into the wardrobes of a globally minded, fashion-literate audience. Collaborative releases with brands including Jean Paul Gaultier and Levi’s introduced these ideas to an even broader market, validating the direction Martens had been refining since collections like SS22.

For followers of New York fashion and its intersection with European avant-garde design, Y/Project represents a case study in how a relatively small Paris label can achieve genuine cultural weight. The SS22 collection, with its film-first presentation strategy and tightly articulated aesthetic point of view, exemplifies the kind of work that continues to be referenced in discussions of early 2020s fashion at its most ambitious. Its influence remains visible in the collections of younger designers and in the continued demand for archival Y/Project pieces on the secondary market through 2025 and beyond.