Veronica Leoni took the coat, the shirt and the slip back to Terminal Warehouse, lined the runway with Walter De Maria sculptures and let the clothes make the argument that what survives subtraction is desire

NEW YORK – Calvin Klein Collection presented its Spring 2027 runway show at Terminal Warehouse in New York City on Sept. 11, the house said in a release dated the following day. The collection continues the label’s exploration of American Minimalism under creative director Veronica Leoni. Calvin Klein, Inc. is part of PVH Corp. (NYSE: PVH).

Leoni frames that minimalism as subtraction, and she separates the founder’s version of it from her own. “American Minimalism was a discipline of removal: take away everything that does not carry the work, until only what is necessary remains,” she said. “Calvin drew from that and turned it toward the body. I turn it toward the woman inside it. My minimalism begins there, in the relation between design and a body, with nothing in between. Take everything away. What is left is desire.”

Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2027 Runway Show at NYFW

Foundations, Longer and Narrower

The collection builds from the house’s foundational pieces: the coat, the shirt, tailoring, the trouser, the pencil skirt, the slip. Nothing here is decorative. Proportions run longer and narrower, or cinch at the waist.

Tailoring is cut thin and crisp in cotton and lightweight wool. A three-button cotton suit comes slim, with the ease of a t-shirt, and a broader-shouldered jacket is made to be layered. Slip and t-shirt dresses are cut as full bias evening dresses. Extra-fine silk knit tees and color-blocked baseball shirts in silk cady carry the Collection’s American sportswear vernacular, with denim, leather, laser-cut suede and delicate flashes of underwear rounding out the lineup.

The palette moves through a multitude of whites and blacks, then scarlet, bright yellow, royal blue, cherry and light citron, plus a check drawn from and inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe’s wardrobe.

Metal Headbands, Origami Bags

Accessories answer to purpose and practicality. Metal headbands pull the hair back. Scarves drape and come to a point. Bags are enlarged in proportion, sleek and structural or soft and slouchy, with a new triangular, origami-like shape joining the line.

A Warehouse Built in 1891

Terminal Warehouse supplies the frame. The block-long brick building went up in 1891 to the design of George B. Mallory and stands as a landmark of New York’s industrial architecture. Inside, three floor sculptures by Walter De Maria are installed along the runway, so the audience and the models move through the work rather than past it. The soundtrack, by Kid Harpoon, features Laurie Anderson and Solange over a score of sustained, repeating figures.

The Room

Guests dressed in Calvin Klein Collection included ROSALÍA, Teyana Taylor, Tate McRae, Sadie Sink, Ling Ling Kwong, Solange, Emily Ratajkowski, Pamela Anderson, Gemma Chan, Katie Holmes, Jason Bard Yarmosky, Benito Skinner, Mary Beth Barone, Maya Boyd, Supriya Ganesh, St. Vincent, Alex Eala, Giulia Be, Misty Copeland, Iris Law, Lila Moss, Sabrina Elba, Jose Alvarado, 3House, Marcus and Iris Ericsson, Antwaun Sargent, Kid Harpoon, Bethann Hardison and Kitty Ca$h. Also in the collection were Elizabeth Saltzman, Derek Blasberg, Lauren Santo Domingo, Eva Chen, Brandice Daniel, Tommy Ton, Steven Kolb, Phil Oh and Dirk Scanden.

A second group arrived in the wider world of Calvin Klein, from Calvin Klein Collection to Calvin Klein Jeans, tailored suiting and apparel. Among them were Nara Smith, Wisdom Kaye, Madeline Argy, Jake Shane, Yesly Dimate, Ashtin Earle, Isabelle Allain, Natalia Bryant, Chriselle Lim, Charli D’Amelio, Nai Devora, Lily Chee, Jordan Daniels, Marlon Garcia, Ruby Lyn, Alioune Badara-Fall, Sandra Shehab, Jordan Rand, Isan Elba, Enya Umanzor, Jacob Rott, Bach Buquen, Rebecca Donaldson, Paola Locatelli, Ting Ting Lai, Tamu McPherson, Sam Salter, Maritz Hau, Tony Ozkan, Laura Abla, Alexa Chung, Camila Coelho, Maria Bottle, Jorge Patino, Arantza Goett, Jordana Maia, Thomas Chung Manirat, Seira Anzai, Kemio, Sea Tawinan and Bambi Northwood-Bluth.

The Commercial Read

The strategy sits inside the description, which is usually how it works. A collection organized around the coat, the shirt, the trouser, the pencil skirt and the slip is a collection organized around repeat purchase, and the new proportions hand each of those categories a reason to be bought again. Accessories do the same job at a lower entry point. A metal headband or a scarf carries the silhouette signature for a fraction of a bias-cut gown.

Restraint is the harder sell. Minimalism has to read as intention rather than absence, and Leoni’s answer lives in the cutting: full bias, silk cady, laser-cut suede, those flashes of underwear.

A discipline of removal gets harder the longer you practice it. Spring 2027 is a continuation rather than a reset for the house, and that is the more demanding brief. A thesis can be announced once. It has to be proven every season, on the floor.

See the complete collection below: