OpéraSPORT presented its spring-summer 2027 collection, titled “Growth,” on Aug. 3 at Carl Jacobsen’s Garden in Copenhagen, opening the spring 2027 schedule of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Founders Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach built the collection around the garden’s layered history, where nature, symbolism and architecture coexist in what the house describes as quiet balance. The show arrived as the fashion week marked its 20th anniversary with more than 34 runway shows and presentations across the five-day program.
The presentation took place within the garden itself, allowing the environment — its architecture, greenery and natural light — to frame the garments directly. The setting also carries regulatory weight: Copenhagen Fashion Week requires every brand on its official schedule to meet 19 mandatory Minimum Standards covering environmental and social criteria, validated by an external screening committee. OpéraSPORT confirmed its compliance with the standards for the spring 2027 season.
Stelter and Gundelach positioned the collection as a study of garments in constant transformation, exploring themes of continuity, repetition and renewal. Growth functions as both a natural process and a deliberate design decision, according to the house. The garden’s botanical contrasts — the structured strength of the thistle against the abundant bloom of rhododendrons — are translated into opposing design registers of resilience and fragility.
Structured tailoring sits against soft, body-following fabrics, with seamless rib pieces engineered to move with the body. Sheer layers, lace and light textures reveal and conceal, echoing what the designers describe as the interplay between exposure and protection within the garden’s hidden spaces. Draped dresses, layered tops, 3D fabrics and sculptural skirts form the collection’s core categories, alongside refined tailoring.
Silhouettes range from controlled, minimal forms to more expressive, voluminous shapes. The color palette draws on the garden’s tones: soft greens, pale floral hues inspired by rhododendrons, muted neutrals, deeper earth tones and sharper accents referencing thistle stems. The house describes the result as a wardrobe that moves between restraint and release, balancing its signature femininity with a more architectural expression.
The cast mixed street-cast and established faces, reflecting the label’s stated dedication to individuality. Hair was by Hanna Ramirez using Iles Formula & Dreame, with makeup provided by M.A.C Cosmetics Nordics.
Gundelach, a former stylist and consultant, and Stelter, whose background spans design and production, founded OpéraSPORT in 2019. The label has built its business model around minimal production runs and direct-to-consumer distribution, releasing collections in editions to avoid overproduction. Sustainability has anchored the brand’s positioning since launch, with recycled and organic materials remaining central to the offer.
The collection’s move toward more sculptural, runway-ready pieces marks a step up in commercial ambition. “The pieces are definitely more sculptural than what we’ve done before, and they’re also more suited to the runway,” Stelter told Numéro Netherlands ahead of the show. Gundelach said in the same interview that the tailoring has become sharper, while “the lace, florals and draping bring softness and ease.”
“We only put into production what we genuinely think deserves to exist,” Stelter added, reaffirming the label’s anti-overproduction stance. That positioning differentiates OpéraSPORT within a Copenhagen market crowded with premium womenswear labels competing on both price and sustainability credentials.
The spring-summer 2027 collection launches online and in stores from February 2027. The label sells through its direct-to-consumer site and select wholesale accounts. Pricing was not disclosed.
Kopenhag Moda Haftası has positioned itself as the industry’s sustainability benchmark since introducing mandatory minimum standards in 2023, a framework subsequently adopted by other fashion weeks, including London Fashion Week, which began applying the requirements to its NEWGEN emerging-talent program. Brands failing to document compliance are excluded from the official Copenhagen schedule, making sustainability performance a condition of market access rather than a voluntary claim.
For OpéraSPORT, the “Growth” presentation extends a trajectory from edition-based releases to a full pist program on the official calendar. The collection tests whether the label can scale its commercial reach — through more sculptural, occasion-ready pieces — without diluting the sustainability positioning that defines its brand equity. Whether that positioning converts into broader wholesale distribution and retail performance will become measurable when the collection reaches stores in February.
See the full SS27 collections below:
Images Courtesy of OpéraSPORT
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