Sotheby’s To Auction One of the World’s Largest and Most Important Yellow Diamonds
At its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale in Geneva Next Week
The Allnatt – A Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Mounted by Cartier
Weighing over 100 Carats
(estimate 5.6 M – 6.5 M CHF / $6.1 M – $7.1 M)
The May Sale Also Includes
A Highly Important Private Collection
of Signed Jewels Featuring the Most Significant Collection of René Boivin Jewellery Ever Offered at Auction
A Magnificent Internally Flawless Diamond of Over 37 Carats
(estimate 1,460,000 CHF – 2,370,000 CHF / $1.6 M – $2.6 M)
And a Jewelled Menagerie Featuring an Exceptionally Rare Flamingo Brooch by Cartier
Replica of the Original designed for The Duchess of Windsor
Geneva, 7 May 2024 – As part of its flagship Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale, Sotheby’s is bringing to auction one of the largest and most historically significant yellow diamonds ever discovered. Of South African origin and most likely mined over one hundred years ago, the Allnatt (estimate 5.6 M – 6.5 M CHF) – lot 610 in the sale – is a sensational 101.29-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond mounted as a brooch by the esteemed house of Cartier. The legendary jewel will be making its first appearance on the market in nearly thirty years.
Celebrated for its richly saturated golden color, the Alnatt is named after its first documented owner, Major Alfred Ernest Allnatt, a renowned British sportsman, racehorse owner, philanthropist, collector, and patron of the arts. Allnatt acquired the diamond in the early 1950s and proceeded to have it mounted as a brooch by Cartier.
The brooch’s floral design is highly reminiscent of the mounting Cartier created during the same years of production (1952-1953) to showcase another historic diamond, the Williamson Pink. The future Queen Elizabeth II received the extraordinary pink diamond as a wedding present in 1947 and subsequently had it mounted by Cartier as a brooch which she wore throughout her long and prosperous reign
The exceptional qualities of the Allnatt have afforded it to be included in prestigious exhibitions such as ‘The Splendor of Diamonds’ staged in 2003 at the Smithsonian Museum of National History in Washington DC. The exhibition showcased seven of the most celebrated diamonds representing the best specimens in their respective colors.
Sotheby’s Geneva biannual flagship Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Live Sale will take place on 14 May at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, during which the dazzling Allnatt yellow diamond brooch will be auctioned. Other highlights are listed below.
Two further sales will take place concurrently online at Sothebys.com, Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style (2-16 May), a continuation of the extraordinary single-owner collection designated under the same name in the live Magnificent Jewels sale, and Important Jewels online sale (3-17 May).
Sotheby’s Luxury Sales also include auctions of Important Watches, both live (12 May) and online (1-15 May), Handbags and Accessories online (9-23 May), and an impressive online offering of Gold Boxes and Fabergé (2-13 May). Lots across these sales will be exhibited on varying dates starting May 9 through May 14.
Completing Sotheby’s Luxury Sales is the exceptional sale online (10-21 May) of a unique black V4Rs Colnago bike with a gold leaf finish.
All sales are available on Sothebys.com/luxurysalesgeneva
Exceptional Highlights: From Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale
Lot 612
The most valuable lot in the sale after the Allnatt is an outstanding unmounted diamond weighing 37.61 carats. Of exceptional purity, the diamond of E color and Internally Flawless clarity is distinguished by an old mine cutting style with an open culet, excellent polish, and excellent symmetry.
Estimate 1,460,000 CHF – 2,370,000 CHF ($1.6 M – $2.6 M)
Lot 613
An impressive pair of Burmese sapphires weighing 14.66 and 13.94 carats, respectively. Framed by marquise-shaped diamonds of blue tint, the earrings present an uncommon opportunity to acquire a matched pair of significantly sized, top-quality Burmese sapphires.
Estimate 1,000,000 CHF – 1,460,000 CHF ($1.1 M – $1.6 M)
Lot 619
Property of a Lady, this brooch is a recreation of the iconic flamingo brooch Cartier designed for the Duchess of Windsor in 1940 which was sold by Sotheby’s originally in 1987 and most recently again in 2010. The jewel, offered with the original design drawing, is regarded as one of Cartier’s most iconic designs and is perhaps the only recreation of the original Duchess of Windsor flamingo brooch ever issued by the legendary Maison.
Estimate 100,000 CHF – 150,000 CHF ($110,000 – $165,000)
Lot 615 – Property of a Lady offered for the first time at auction
Part of the legendary three-dimensional menagerie first created by Cartier for the Duchess of Windsor in 1946, this is a larger and rarer than usual model from the Panthère range and features a swivel-set head, pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds and polished onyx, with pear-shaped emerald eyes and a polished onyx nose. The brooch, produced circa 1988 comes with the original Cartier design drawing.
Estimate 150,000 CHF – 200,000 CHF ($165,000 – $220,000)
Lot 617 – Property of a Lady offered for the first time at auction
Another fine example of the Cartier menagerie, this brooch is designed as a ring-tailed lemur holding a cabochon cat’s eye chrysoberyl stated to weigh 10.92 carats, with pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and polished onyx stripes with eyes accented by brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint. The lot, created circa 1991, comes with its gouache design.
Estimate 70,000 CHF – 90,000 CHF ($77,000 – $100,000)
Lot 618 – Property offered for the first time at auction
An unusual Tiger piece by Cartier created circa 1988, this brooch is designed with a swivel-set head, pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds and polished onyx, featuring pear-shaped emerald eyes and a polished onyx nose. The brooch comes with the original design drawing.
Estimate 70,000 CHF – 90,000 CHF ($77,000 – $100,000)
Lot 608
This outstanding piece of jewelry design by James Taffin de Givenchy for Sotheby’s Diamonds is a bold take on the Toi et Moi motif. The ring is set with a pear-shaped fancy intense blue diamond weighing 3.03 carats and a similarly shaped diamond weighing 2.82 carats, the mount is pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds.
Estimate 730,000 CHF – 1,100,000 CHF ($800,000 – $1.2 M)
Lot 600
A stunning natural pearl necklace of exceptional provenance, having reputedly belonged to the collection of Maharani Gayatri Devi, Rajamata of Jaipur (1919-2009) and having been exhibited in some of the greatest museums in the world including Paris’ Le Grand Palais and The Palace Museum in Beijing. The necklace was designed as a graduated row of round to oval natural pearls measuring approximately from 7.05 to 14.00mm boasting a beautifully matching overall shape and quality.
Estimate 550,000 CHF – 730,000 CHF ($600,000 – $800,000)
Lot 620
This stunning ‘royal blue’ Kashmir weighing 17.29 carats is one of the finest and largest of its kind to appear on the market in recent years. From a private collection, the exceptional gemstone displays a classic cushion outline and is framed by triangular diamonds.
Estimate 500,000 CHF – 800,000 CHF ($550,000 – $880,000)
Lot 601
This unique ring designed by JAR, one of today’s most influential and innovative jewelry designers, stunningly integrates an antique gem of impeccable noble provenance within a contemporary mount. This Fancy Intense Yellowish Green diamond ring weighing 2.47 carats, was formerly in the collection of Countess Eliza Krasinska, née Branicka (1820-1876), whose father was Count Wladyslaw Branicki (1783-1843), the godson of Empress Catherine the Great. She likely received this diamond as an engagement present.
Estimate 460,000 CHF – 640,000 CHF ($500,000 – $700,000)
Lot 603
This historically important 19th-century emerald and diamond brooch affords a rare opportunity to acquire a jewel from the fabled collection of Countess Henckel von Donnersmarck, also notoriously known as ‘La Païva’ (1819-1884). The most celebrated, successful, and formidable Parisian courtesan of the Second French Empire, La Païva had an insatiable appetite for magnificent gemstones, including this intensely saturated emerald weighing 30.70 carats.
Estimate 370,000 CHF – 550,000 CHF ($400,000 – $600,000)
Lot 515
A gorgeous spinel and diamond ring by Carven French, starring a top-quality spinel bearing no treatment and weighing 35.25 carats with a cushion-shape set between half-moon diamond shoulders. One of the most sought-after gemstones on the market, a spinel of this quality and size is rare.
Estimate 320,000 CHF – 500,000 CHF ($350,000 – $550,000)
Lot 598 – Property of a Lady, offered for the first time at auction
This diamond ring by Harry Winston was acquired by the present owner in the late 1950s to early 1960s and has remained in their possession since. The ring boasts an exquisite pear-shaped diamond weighing 12.47 carats set between tapered baguette diamond shoulders.
Estimate 300,000 CHF – 500,000 CHF ($330,000 – $550,000)
Lot 599 – Property of a Lady, offered for the first time at auction
A fine pair of natural pearl, cultured pearl, and diamond pendent ear clips, each composed of a detachable pendant set with a slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 10.10 – 12.70 x 18.20mm and 10.15 – 12.85 x 19.40mm respectively. The pearls are enhanced with baguette and square diamonds and topped by a surmount centering a roundish cultured pearl framed by baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds. These ear clips were bought by the present owner in the late 1950s to early 1960s and have remained in her possession since.
Estimate 200,000 CHF – 300,000 CHF ($220,000 – $330,000)
Lot 597 – Property of a Lady, offered for the first time at auction
This vintage emerald and diamond ring, initially bought from Cartier Paris in the early 1960s has remained in the same noble family ever since.
It is set with a step-cut emerald weighing 3.62 carats and a step-cut diamond weighing 4.81 carats, between tapered baguette diamond shoulders.
Estimate 100,000 CHF – 200,000 CHF ($110,000 – $220,000)
Lot 596 – From A European Royal Family, offered for the first time at auction
A likely unique and important mystery clock in nephrite, hardstone, mother-of-pearl, and diamond created by Cartier Paris, circa 1980. The design elements of this clock, in particular the carved nephrite vase, the stylized hours, and the hands of flame design refer to the East Asian motifs that featured prominently on the celebrated mystery clocks of the Art Deco era.
Estimate 150,000 CHF – 200,000 CHF ($165,000 – $220,000)
Lot 586 – Property of a Lady offered for the first time at auction
This alluring Mugal-inspired Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet features a series of carved emeralds and sapphires, cabochon rubies, and diamonds. Produced during the apex of the Art Deco period in the 1930s, this is a highly collectible piece.
Estimate 140,000 CHF – 230,000 CHF ($150,000 – $250,000)
