A Vision of Mexican Reverie Meets Architectural Precision
Leo Prothmann presented his Fall/Winter 2026 collection, titled “CABAÑA,” today during his first official runway show on the London Fashion Week schedule. The presentation marked a defining moment for the London-based designer, whose singular aesthetic—equal parts sculptural rigor and tactile warmth—has already captured the attention of the industry’s most discerning tastemakers.
Fresh from styling Erykah Badu, Prothmann drew the collection’s genesis from an extended retreat to San José del Pacífico, Mexico, where he marked a decade of partnership in near-total seclusion. The landscape—its volcanic mud tones, dense forest greens, luminous teals, and sun-warmed mustard—became the emotional and chromatic foundation of the season. In deliberate contrast to the muted restraint that often defines fall-winter palettes, “CABAÑA” radiates unexpected vibrancy, translating the heat and humidity of the Mexican highlands into garments built for northern latitudes.
The silhouette is architectural yet intimate. Outerwear emerges as the collection’s cornerstone: modular quilted leather parkas and sweeping morning capes constructed from repurposed leather strips command presence without weight. These are pieces designed to hold structure while yielding softly to the body, marrying utility with quiet authority.
Prothmann’s signature shell forms evolve into intricate leather cages, each supported by internal boning that preserves shape across movement. Evening looks distill the technique to its purest expression: a single continuous leather spiral, hand-positioned strip by strip, creates garments that read as both object and attire. The designer refers to these as “couture furniture”—works that exist in permanent dialogue between sculpture and wearability, demanding extraordinary technical mastery.
Footwear innovation arrives through a new collaboration with Dr. Martens. Reinterpreting the iconic Jadon boot, Prothmann created a cargo-pocketed hiking legwarmer hybrid—waterproof, breathable, and directly inspired by the trails of his Mexican sojourn. The result is a utilitarian statement that feels equally at home on city streets and mountain paths.
Accessories complete the vision with precision. Limited-edition resin sunglasses developed in partnership with Cubitts offer subtle distortion and architectural framing, while sculptural, asymmetrical jewelry by Ollivion adds a final note of quiet disruption.
“CABAÑA” is Leo Prothmann’s most complete declaration to date: a collection that refuses seasonal cliché, honors deep personal narrative, and reaffirms the designer’s commitment to material innovation, emotional resonance, and uncompromising craft.
Images Courtesy of Leo Prothmann
In other brand campaign news, Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2026 Campaign Shot By Steven Meisel
