Look Right Through Me: from the blue soft lights of the bowling alley and the metropolitan outdoor spaces to the intimacy of
different domestic situations and the glamorous appeal of a mysterious club, the camera captures the life
of independent women showing a strong, distinctive look. They are part of a group embodying the spirit of
a generation who cherish a desire for lightheartedness and social relations.
The contrast between the first scene, infused with a certain sense of loneliness, and the final one, choral
and joyful, becomes the metaphor of what we have experienced and we are still experiencing, but that we
will be able to leave behind with the only antidote we have: looking ahead, running towards the future and
being happy with what life can still give us.
Soundtrack: “Mad World” (Roland Orzabal)
Cover by Underwaters (Nathalie Cahuzac aka Josee Laika and Jorge Viñals aka VISE)
©️ Roland Orzabal Ltd. / BMG Rights Management (UK) Ltd
Edizioni per l’Italia: BMG Rights Management (Italy) srl
Revisiting this 2021 presentation in 2026 underscores how Missoni's signature knitwear and its message of communal optimism have remained central to the house's identity under creative director Filippo Grassl.
The Creative Vision Behind 'Look Right Through Me'
The Missoni Fall/Winter 2021 collection, presented under the title Look Right Through Me, was far more than a seasonal runway exercise. Creative director Filippo Grassl constructed a cinematic short film in place of a traditional catwalk show, a decision that reflected both the pandemic-era constraints of the moment and a genuine artistic ambition to communicate something emotionally resonant rather than merely commercial.
The film traces a group of women moving through recognizable urban environments: a bowling alley washed in cool blue light, open metropolitan streets, intimate domestic interiors, and the charged atmosphere of a late-night club. Each setting functions as a chapter in a larger narrative about solitude, solidarity, and the slow return of collective joy. The progression is deliberate. Early scenes carry a quiet melancholy, the kind of stillness that defined so much of 2020 and early 2021 for people across the world. As the film advances, the energy lifts, the spaces fill, and the women gather together in a final sequence that reads as both a celebration and a promise.
The choice of Roland Orzabal’s ‘Mad World,’ delivered in a hushed, intimate cover by Underwaters, reinforces this duality. The song is simultaneously a lament and a call to awareness, an acknowledgment of difficulty that refuses to surrender to despair. Grassl used that tension deliberately, grounding the collection’s optimistic forward momentum in an honest reckoning with what the world had been through.
Missoni's Signature Aesthetic and the Fall/Winter 2021 Palette
To understand the full significance of the Fall/Winter 2021 collection, it helps to situate it within Missoni’s broader design language, one of the most immediately recognizable in Italian fashion. Founded in 1953 by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in Varese, Italy, the house built its reputation on boldly patterned knitwear: zigzag stripes, space-dyed yarns, and richly layered colorwork that occupied a space between fine art and wearable craft. That heritage remained the foundation of the 2021 presentation.
For this collection, Grassl worked within the house’s chromatic tradition while calibrating the palette to suit the emotional temperature of the moment. Warm, enveloping tones appeared alongside the bold geometric patterning that longtime Missoni followers expect, but the silhouettes leaned toward ease and movement. Fluid knit dresses, layered coordinates, and tactile outerwear all communicated comfort without sacrificing the theatrical flair the brand has always delivered.
Key design details from the collection included:
- Elongated knit separates featuring classic Missoni chevron and flame-stitch patterns in autumnal color combinations
- Fluid maxi dresses suited to both the club scenes and the domestic settings depicted in the film
- Layered knitwear coordinates that demonstrated the house’s command of texture and proportion
- Outerwear pieces incorporating the brand’s signature multicolor weaves at a heavier gauge, appropriate for the fall season
The result was a collection that felt grounded in craft and heritage while projecting genuine forward energy, a balance Grassl has worked to maintain since taking the creative director role.
Why the Missoni 2021 Presentation Still Resonates in 2026
Revisiting the Missoni Fall/Winter 2021 presentation five years later reveals how well it has aged, and how accurately it diagnosed a cultural mood that extended well beyond a single fashion season. The film’s central metaphor, moving from isolation toward communal warmth, captured something that audiences across the world were processing in real time during the spring of 2021. That universality is part of why the presentation continues to circulate and attract attention.
From a purely fashion-historical perspective, the 2021 collection also marks a meaningful chapter in Filippo Grassl’s tenure at Missoni. Grassl, who joined the house in 2018, has consistently demonstrated an ability to honor the brand’s knitwear legacy while finding new narrative contexts for it. The ‘Look Right Through Me’ film was among the strongest examples of that approach, demonstrating that a heritage house can use format innovation, in this case a cinematic short film rather than a live runway show, to deepen rather than dilute its identity.
For readers of this publication following the long arc of New York and global fashion culture, the Missoni 2021 moment also underscores a broader industry shift. The pandemic accelerated experimentation with digital and film-based presentations, and while the live runway show has reasserted itself since then, the best of those cinematic experiments have proven that the format can carry genuine emotional and artistic weight. Missoni’s contribution to that body of work deserves to be recognized among the more lasting achievements of that transitional period in fashion.


