Paris, 8th March 2025
Oscar Wilde once wrote, “Know thyself,” a sentiment that has echoed through the ages. We offer something new for ম্যাককুইন‘s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection: “Be thyself" Under the creative direction of Seán McGirr, this collection redefines dandyism as a personal, playful, and transgressive statement on identity and self-expression. The neo-dandy emerges, one who is immersed in visceral pleasures, blending the codes of Victorian Gothic with a modern, radical spirit.
The Collection: London, by Night
Set against the backdrop of London at night, this collection delves into the world of dandyism, unraveling and rewriting its definition. Think of the intellectuals, artists, and aesthetes of old, Oscar Wilde, Vesta Tilley, Romaine Brooks, adorned for distinction, their identities bold and enigmatic.
The neo-dandy embraces fluidity: silks that feel raw, lace that brushes against the skin, and the tension between spectacle and concealment. Gold bullion embroidered cloaks shimmer in the dark, while crystalline masks obscure the face, letting only the eyes speak. Sculpted black hats by Philip Treacy add angular mystery, shaping a silhouette that challenges the traditions of British tailoring.
The Silhouette
Lean, sharp suiting contrasts with tall book-pleated collars and Victorian pinched shoulders. Shearling wraps around the body as elongated boots make their mark, casting long shadows. Tailcoat parkas in mirrored faceted nylon reflect the city’s electricity, clashing performance fabrics with opulent heirloom jewels. Deep jacquards unfold in hallucinatory hues: fuchsia, iced lilac, green, and deep plum, while the nylon ripples against the silk georgette.
Fabrics
- Wool: Double-faced wool cashmere, cavalry twill, and wool gabardine woven in British mills, each piece tailored to perfection.
- সিল্ক: Washed silk satin organza and silk georgette in a palette of black, fuchsia, iced green, lilac, plum, and poppy red, paired with natural shearling.
- Lace: Fine serpentine rose lace, Chantilly floral lace in crimson and black, and embellished glass bead and sequin-embroidered lace tights in black and crimson.
- Leather & Shearling: Black and antiqued brown leather, tufted shearling in fuchsia, ivory, and natural tones.
- নাইলন: Tri-layer waterproof nylon in navy and plum.
- Jacquard: Sunflowers woven in metallic black, deep green, silver, and gold.
Embroidery
The collection’s embroidery tells a story of nature and mysticism, with naturalistic motifs and a crystal ribcage formed by glass stones, bullion, and metal mesh. Sunflower motifs are studded with metal and faceted beads, while jet sunflowers add depth through glass beads, faceted beads, and sequins. Goldwork recalls archival McQueen bullion embroidery, adding an element of craftsmanship and decadence to the collection.
আনুষাঙ্গিক
- টুপি: Designed by the legendary Philip Treacy, the hats bring angular, sculptural mystery to the look.
- Masks: Crafted by Matthew Empringham and Frederic Coomes, these masks are a modern interpretation of concealment and spectacle.
- Bags: The Farringdon bag features supple leather with McQueen’s signature harness detail. The T-Bar Sling bag offers a sculptural cross-body design, while The Drop bag is spherical, with a hardened exterior and crystal mirror embroidery.
গয়না
Inspired by Victorian naturalism and Oscar Wilde, the jewelry features crystal-encrusted sunflowers and sharp, faceted gems. It’s a statement of boldness, adorned with nature’s beauty, perfectly complementing the daring aesthetic of the collection.
পাদুকা
- The Corvax Boots, Mules & Oxfords: Elongated, laced, and buckled to a fine point, these shoes are available in black, crimson, ivory, silver, and patent leathers, with lace detailing to add an extra edge to the dandy silhouette.
The Show Space
The presentation is an art installation by Tom Scutt, echoing the haunting atmosphere of The Picture of Dorian Gray. A sharp portal cuts through Victorian architecture, mirroring the tension between past and future. The space glows with tungsten-tinged and absinthe-like light, creating an ambient, otherworldly atmosphere.
The Soundtrack
The soundscape is as complex and layered as the collection itself. French musician Ange Halliwell’s “My Secret Grief” blends nineteenth-century strings with hypnotic arpeggios, while tracks from international artists, including Joy Orbison’s “Flight fm ” and D-Breeze’s “Crazy for Love,” remixed by Autechre, add a modern, electric pulse to the show.
Credits
- Philip Treacy OBE: A London-based Irish milliner who has worked with Lee Alexander McQueen since the early nineties.
- Tom Scutt: A Tony Award-winning British artist whose recent work includes ক্যাবারে (West End/Broadway) and কারমেন at the Metropolitan Opera House.
- Matthew Empringham এবং Frederic Coomes: A design duo based in London and supported by the Sarabande Foundation, they launched their brand, Aletta, in 2024.
- স্টাইলিং: Sarah Richardson
- কাস্টিং: Julia Lange
- চুল: Gary Gill
- মেকআপ: Daniel Sallstrom
- Nails: আমা কোয়াশি
- Concept and Production Design: Tom Scutt
- সঙ্গীত: Cyrus Goberville
- Movement: Pat Boguslawski
ম্যাককুইন’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection challenges the status quo of ফ্যাশন, blending rich history with a radical vision for the future. It’s a tribute to the enduring spirit of dandyism, personal, playful, and unapologetically bold.
