David Koma’s Resort 2027 collection, titled “Full Authorship,” is built around the concept of movement, beginning with a single curved-line drawing that recurs across the collection in napa leather, stacked silver chain, and strategic cut-outs. Key pieces include poolside-ready dresses with structured ruffles or lightweight metallic chains, column gowns, and bomber jackets with snake-print leather, and sculptural shapes requiring a hidden crinoline. The lookbook features an AI-generated model rather than a human one. Maya Jama previewed a transparent sequin python-print dress from the collection at the Serpentine summer party.

ডেভিড কোমা‘s Resort 2027 collection, titled “Full Authorship,” begins with a single curved-line marker drawing that recurs across the collection in napa leather on floor-length gowns, stacked silver chain on a black mini dress, and leg slits and cut-outs throughout.
The collection draws from the athleticism of pole dancers, with many pieces draped directly on the body and sculptural shapes requiring hidden crinoline to achieve structure within a resort context that demands lightness.
Richard Avedon’s 1981 photograph “Nastassja Kinski and Serpent” informed column gowns and bomber jackets with snake print stamped onto leather, alongside poolside-ready dresses embellished with structured ruffles or lightweight metallic chains.
The lookbook features an AI-generated model rather than a human one, extending Koma’s concept of “full authorship” beyond garment construction into image-making, which he describes as “a dialogue between the imagination and the image.”
Maya Jama, a muse of the brand, previewed a transparent sequin python-print dress at the Serpentine summer party, providing the collection’s most visible real-world appearance before its wider release.

David Koma started Resort 2027 with a marker and a curved line. Not a fabric swatch, not a reference folder, not a client brief. A single drawn gesture, executed before any draping or construction began, that would eventually appear across the entire collection: in napa leather forming the top of floor-length gowns and a nude mesh top, in stacked silver chain on a black mini dress, in the leg slits and cut-outs that run through the remaining looks. The gesture is the collection’s organizing principle, and its simplicity is deliberate.

“"“ফ্যাশন can be demanding and noisy,” Koma said. “I felt the need to reconnect with those feelings and ideas I had when I first started designing.” That reconnection took place in his Shoreditch studio, a space WWD describes as a বিলাসিতা few London-based brands can afford these days. The process was hands-on throughout: hand sketching, draping on the body, constructing pieces in-house. Resort 2027 is titled “Full Authorship,” and the title is literal. Koma controlled every stage.

How Napa Leather, Hidden Crinoline, and Snake-Print Stamping Produce Koma’s Sculptural Resort Silhouettes

The collection’s stated starting point is movement, specifically the movement of pole dancers. Koma cited the hidden strength required for pole dancers to form their shapes: “to create something that looks effortless requires a lot of discipline,” he said. That observation translates directly into the construction. Many pieces were draped on the body for what WWD describes as maximum sensuality. The standouts are poolside-ready dresses embellished with structured ruffles or lightweight metallic chains, garments that read as relaxed but require considerable internal engineering.

The sculptural ambition is where the technical challenge concentrates. Creating structured shapes within a resort collection that calls for breeziness and lightness demanded layers, hidden crinoline in some cases, and a willingness to build architecture into garments that appear to have none. Richard Avedon’s 1981 photograph “Nastassja Kinski and Serpent” provided a secondary reference, prompting column gowns and bomber jackets with snake-print leather. The napa leather pieces and the stacked silver chain work carry the curved-line motif from drawing into the garment without losing its original fluidity. The detailing reframes resort dressing as a category capable of sustaining sculptural complexity without abandoning ease.

Why Koma’s AI Lookbook and Maya Jama’s Serpentine Appearance Define “Full Authorship” Beyond the Clothes

The concept of “full authorship” extends past construction into image-making. The lookbook model is not human. Koma used AI-generated digital tools to create a visualization of his initial imagined muse, describing the result as exploring “the space between imagination and image, while the garments remain firmly rooted in craftsmanship and reality.” The decision is consistent with the collection’s logic: if authorship means controlling every element, then the image of the woman wearing the clothes is as much a design decision as the clothes themselves. “Digital tech is another creative medium within my process,” Koma said.

The physical counterpoint arrived on Tuesday night. Maya Jama, described by WWD as a muse of the brand, wore a transparent sequin python-print dress from the collection to the Serpentine summer party. The appearance provided what the AI lookbook deliberately withheld: a real body in a real room, observed by other people. Koma’s framing of the collection across both registers, the digitally authored and the physically worn, is the most complete expression of what “full authorship” means this season. He is not choosing between the virtual and the real. He is claiming both.

David Koma’s Resort 2027 is a collection that begins with a single drawn line and follows that line through napa leather, stacked silver chain, snake-print-stamped leather, and hidden crinoline until it arrives at a lookbook in which even the model is authored rather than cast. The construction is rigorous, the pole-dancer reference is legible in the draping, and Maya Jama’s Serpentine appearance confirms the clothes work on an actual body in an actual context. Koma’s Shoreditch studio produced a resort collection that treats ease as an outcome of discipline, not its opposite. The authorship is, as promised, full.

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