Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 Menswear Presentation

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Viewed through the lens of 2026, the 'Universal Passport' presentation is now recognized as one of Tisci's final landmark statements for the house before Daniel Lee assumed the creative director role in 2023 and steered Burberry in a new direction.

The 'Universal Passport' concept and its creative vision

Riccardo Tisci titled the Spring/Summer 2022 menswear presentation ‘Universal Passport,’ a phrase that carries both political resonance and deeply personal meaning. The concept positioned clothing as a form of borderless identity, a visual language spoken across cultures, generations, and geographies. For Tisci, who has long drawn on his own experience as an outsider navigating different worlds, the passport metaphor served as a declaration that fashion, at its most powerful, belongs to everyone.

The presentation captured a generation defined by movement, community, and a hunger for connection following years of global restriction. Rather than staging a conventional runway show, Tisci chose a living, breathing tableau of youth in motion, one that blurred the lines between fashion presentation, performance art, and documentary. The result was a piece of visual storytelling as much as it was a seasonal collection reveal.

Thematically, ‘Universal Passport’ built on the threads Tisci had been weaving through his tenure at Burberry since taking the creative director role in 2018: the tension between British tradition and global street culture, between heritage and disruption, between the institution and the individual. SS22 represented perhaps the most distilled expression of that ongoing conversation.

Millennium Mills, East London, and the significance of location

The choice of Millennium Mills as the setting for the Burberry SS22 menswear presentation was far from incidental. The imposing, derelict flour mill standing at Royal Victoria Docks in East London is a building steeped in working-class history, industrial grit, and a particular kind of earned beauty that comes from decades of weathering. Its raw concrete facades and cavernous interiors provided a backdrop that was simultaneously cinematic and grounded, grand yet authentically unglamorous.

East London itself carries enormous cultural weight in the context of British youth culture. The area has functioned for decades as an incubator for subcultural movements in music, art, fashion, and activism. By situating a major luxury fashion presentation there, Tisci was making a deliberate statement about where Burberry’s cultural allegiances lay, not in the manicured parks and private members’ clubs of West London, but in the energy of communities that build things from the ground up.

The location also reinforced the egalitarian spirit encoded in the ‘Universal Passport’ concept. Millennium Mills is a space defined by collective labor and shared history, which made it an apt stage for a presentation celebrating togetherness, freedom, and the irreverent creativity of youth. Cinematically, the contrast between Burberry’s luxury positioning and the mill’s industrial rawness produced a visual tension that gave the film much of its memorable power.

The creative team behind the presentation

The strength of the ‘Universal Passport’ presentation rested heavily on the caliber of collaborators Tisci assembled. Each contributor brought a distinct expertise that elevated the work beyond a standard brand film into something with genuine artistic integrity.

Styling was handled by Ib Kamara, a Sierra Leone-born creative whose approach to dressing merges Afrodiasporic cultural references with a sharp contemporary sensibility. Kamara’s work has consistently challenged mainstream fashion’s aesthetic hierarchies, and his contribution here added layers of meaning to every look presented. His subsequent rise to become editor-in-chief of Dazed magazine further underscores the prescience of Tisci’s choice.

Make-up was led by Isamaya Ffrench, one of the most conceptually rigorous make-up artists working today, whose work treats the face as a site of radical transformation rather than mere enhancement. Hair direction came from Jawara, whose reputation for sculptural, culturally resonant hair work has made him one of the most sought-after collaborators in global fashion.

Choreography was the responsibility of Josh Johnson and Tosh Basco, both of whom brought backgrounds rooted in contemporary dance and performance. Their movement direction gave the presentation its kinetic pulse, transforming what could have been static modeling into something genuinely alive. The musical score, provided by Shpongle and Astrix, anchored the entire experience in a psychedelic electronic soundscape that felt both timeless and urgently present. Direction was handled by Partel Oliva, whose visual instincts translated the collection’s themes into a coherent and striking cinematic language.