12 Brands to Remember from Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week is over and from these days dedicated to the new collections, we have selected 12 brands to remember, that for different reasons are worth the while.
Here is the list, in alphabetical order:
- Anteprima;
- Baldinini w/ACBC;
- Borsalino;
- Fracomina;
- Hui;
- Husky Original;
- Mar De Margaritas;
- Martino Midali;
- Maryling;
- Oblique Creations;
- Paciotti;
- Viviers;
Anteprima
Anteprima celebrates its 30th anniversary in Milan, the city where the brand is born, and the real inspiration for Izumi Ogino, the adorable Creative Director of the brand.
Love is the core of this collection, and the word “love”, handwritten by Izumi Ogino is also the background for the runway.
The collection is a compendium of modern rebellious spirit and classic femininity, blended in a dramatic halo.
“Light the darkness” is the key message of the new FW23 collection, a perfect union between past and present, tradition and innovation.
“I created the collection to express the inner security and beauty, the audacity and sensuality of the contemporary woman who lives her life to the fullest, fights for her freedom, rights, and happiness”, underlines the CD.
“When I create something, I try to find a meeting point between two worlds, bringing that beauty into something that modern women can wear every day”, concludes Izumi Ogino.
The shapes are structured and clear while maintaining a sense of fluidity and femininity. The cutouts are precise and the edges are rounded on minimalist garments with a fresher and more decisive touch. Inspired by the world of architecture and design, the sculpted yet ethereal volume adds a fun dimension to the collection.
Anteprima adds continuous attention to sustainability with the use of recycled fabrics and materials and the development and design of recycled metal wire.
Highlights from the runway:
Anteprima Fashion Show all photos by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Anteprima
Anteprima Social links
website: Anteprima
Instagram: @anteprimaofficial
Baldinini w/ACBC
The historical Italian brand focused on shoes and accessories have chosen to co-work wit ACBC, an acronym for Anything Can Be Changed, the first and only Italian B Corp to act worldwide, that is an expert in the design of sustainable shoes.
During Milano fashion week, Baldinini presented a 20+ pieces men’s and women’s capsule collection made of sustainable bio-based materials to reduce the CO2 impact on the environment.
The brand has also revealed the new embossed Baldinini monogram to personalize the soles. These are partially made in ReTPU, pre-consumer recycled rubber granules: it combines heritage with a fresh image in line with the brand’s international vision, marking its restyling path in a more contemporary image.
The midsole is partially made in Bio-EVA, a material bio-synthesized from sugar cane and the lining in RePET, post-consumer recycled polyester.
The new sneakers focus on innovation and look and are offered in two variants:
- with a low cut,
- with a mid cut;
“The first capsule bears witness to Baldinini’s commitment to a more responsible future with a lower environmental impact. This was possible thanks to the meeting with ACBC, which married our heritage with an innovative hand, in the name of Italian excellence, which has always been an intrinsic value of our DNA”, comments Christian Prazzoli, CEO of Baldinini.
Giò Giacobbe, CEO of ACBC, added: “Within the current fashion system, a market that represents 10% of global CO2 production, reducing one’s impact on the environment is becoming a prerogative of all the companies involved. Having been chosen by a brand like Baldinini which has a heritage of over 100 years makes us particularly proud […]. Together, by combining our expertise in the field of consultancy and their tradition and essence, we have created a footwear collection that is a symbol of change for our planet.”
Baldinini social links
website: Baldinini
Instagram: @baldininiofficial
ACBC social links
Website: ACBC
Instagram: @acbc.official
[NYSG has no physically proven research in its hands that enforces any statement, NYSG reports in good faith the words of the brands’ leaders. For any request on eco-friendly documentation we kindly ask you to contact the brands -ed]
Borsalino
The Borsalino Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection marks the debut of Maison’s New Head of Style Jacopo Politi.
The new collection is ambitious in terms of storytelling and pushes the consumers to discover with vanguardism the mysterious destination of space.
Travel has always been the very intimate traction of this brand all Made in Alessandria, but this time it truly invites us to boldly go where no man has gone before: an extra-terrestrial discovery walk towards the cosmo.
The result is a collection that chooses materials such as lurex, rhinestones, holographic effects, laminations, silver yarns and metallic logos. Shapes explore new stylistic frontiers: the premiere symbols of the Borsalino craftsmanship tradition pieces in felt, are also available in a wool version, enriched with the misty processes of a ‘nebula-effect’, ‘land of Mars’, and ‘starry skies.’
The classic Fedora never fades, and God forbids it, there are classics that should never leave. But there are also many innovations within the collection:
- The beret marks a great comeback seen in the micro-Leslie and maxi Sveva versions;
- The Baseball Cap, continues to confirm its status as a must-have essential with the new Yvan model;
- The new Beanie in boucle wool takes on the name Sandy;
- The novelty of all novelties: the Cirillo beanie, a rock-climbing inspired model in technical honeycomb fabric with a Velcro 2.0 closure.
Borsalino men’s collection
Women’s collection
Fabrics:
Borsalino social links
Website: Borsalino
Instagram: @borsalino_world
Fracomina
This is Fracomina’s debut at Milan Fashion Week. The very cohesive runway has offered a lively view of femininity: naturally versatile and contemporary.
The apparels offer contamination of different styles and work for a wide variety of women and personalities: effortless, good for every moment of the day.
There is room for both boho wonder and a vintage soul alongside the material delicacy and soft cuts.
London calling and Seventies fascination with which the Fracomina Women cross styles passes from new preppy and so-British details to gold rock rhythm on two-pieces in sequins and velvet.
Finally, the long dresses are seductive and very feminine.
“Our presence at Milano Moda Donna is another important stage in the growth path of Fracomina which increasingly places itself as an interpreter of the many aspects of the contemporary woman. We have chosen a runway with an international vocation such as Milan to best express these aspects ” commented Ferdinando Prisco, CEO of Fracomina.
Highlights from the runway:
Fracomina social links:
website: Fracomina
instagram: @fracomina_official
Hui
It all started with an embroidered fabric from the early Qing dynasty (1636-1912) which is part of the permanent collection of the Centenary Fashion Museum of which Hui Zou Zhao is the founder and curator in Shenzhen.
Wear and time have made the outlines of the design less clear: it represents a magnolia tree with two hares underneath. In China, the magnolia is a symbol of dignity and perseverance but also of nobility and beauty. Instead in an ancient popular ballad, there is a verse that says “If two hares run together who will be able to recognize whether they are male or female?”
From these premises, the lady of Chinese fashion in Milan recalled Mulan, the American animated film based on the legend of Hua Mulan: the beautiful girl who dressed up as a soldier to go to war, replacing her father.
Mulan in Mandarin has two meanings: “sweet and gentle like a magnolia flower” or “born with the magnolia in bloom”. For this reason, the Hui Collection for autumn/winter 2023/24 is based on the fascinating feminine contrast between strength and fragility, on the infinite talent of women in doing anything without violence and thirst for power.
We detect three themes colors connected in the new collection:
1- Hui adds gold and silver shaded embroidery on basic colors: black and white.
2 – Red, black, and beige serve as the foundation and basis for a print that recalls the ancient Qing embroidery with sequined lace over it.
3 – Straight skirts just below the calf combined with masculine-style jackets and coats in strong colors such as teal, emerald green, and fiery red.
All the graphic and chromatic details come together in a patchwork cape with the symbols of courage.
Finally, the faux fur conceals the pixelated design of a dragon in shades of teal green and red. Only the emperor and his best generals were allowed to wear clothes decorated with the dragon motif, which brings luck, success, and victory to the brave.
Hui chooses to use them in the women’s collection, as no one has more courage than a woman today.
Highlights from the runway:
Hui social links:
website: HUI
Instagram: @huimilano
Husky Original
Alessandra and Saverio Moschillo’s brand tells its origins with a luxury and contemporary touch, mixing a Horse&Green wardrobe with the atmospheres of Swinging London for F-W 2023/24 at Milan women’s fashion.
In the spotlight the Riding Jacket, the Competition Jacket, the short coats in mohair wool in pop colors and the high-performance all-season garments.
Husky returns to the spotlight of the Milan Fashion Week Women’s Collection to pay homage to its origins linked to the equestrian world. The historic brand, now owned by Alessandra and Saverio Moschillo, which became famous for the quilted nylon hunting jacket so loved by Queen Elizabeth and the Royal Family for horseback riding, has chosen to retrace the imagery inspired by the English countryside with luxury and contemporary hand.
A Horse&Green wardrobe for autumn-winter 2023/24 is hence born, made up of typical horse racing outwear, perfect for wearing in formal or more dynamic situations, from the city to the most exclusive weekend locations.
Soft and very warm all-season pieces, with a comfortable fit and high performance, are evidence of the company’s continuous high-tech research.
The knitwear evolves with colorful cashmere and mohair wool sweaters, including floral embroideries that bloom in 3D on the back of the outerwear, inspired by the Bodmin moor in England.
It is an exclusive union of functionality and aesthetics aimed at celebrating the history of the brand, starting from the iconicity and long tradition of Husky, with a glance to the future.
website: husky original
Mar De Margaritas
Mar de Margaritas is the foot into fashion for one of Italians’ favorite darlings, Belen Rodriguez.
María Belén Rodríguez Cozzani, better known as Belén Rodríguez or Belén, is an Argentine television personality, actress and model based in Milan since 2004.
Her new collection is dreamy and embraces new fabrics and patterns: from the heart of her roots, the floral and romantic inspiration blends with sophistication and glamour, especially for nights out and exclusive events.
There is no Mar De Margaritas (sea of daisies) without flowers, and they are still dominating the scene, even if new tints and colors embellish the collection. Ton-sur-ton, party mood, charm and architectural lines flatter a sensual woman that cares about details.
A new entry is knitwear, to hug the everyday look, and celebrate women’s bodies with flattering cuts. After all, this is where the female body is the heart and soul of the production.
Belen’s dresses are for every woman, they are very adaptable on every curve, and enhance the beauty of every woman: just one look to feel beautiful and self-confident.
The night even at MAKA loft was a delightful moment not only to discover the collection, but also to meet people from in and out the showbiz, with lovely moments dedicated to Belen’s parents, and a delicious Japanese and fusion menu.
Highlights from the collection:
[This part of the article was possible thanks to the collaboration of Olga Palaskiewicz-ed]
Mar De Margaritas social links:
website: Mar De Margaritas
Instagram: @mardemargaritasbrand
Martino Midali
Martino Midali is well known and loved in Milan by women of any age. His motto for fall winter 2023 is: shapes of freedom.
Free proportions playing on shapes, overlaps, and movement. The law of layering is the stylistic mantra of Martino Midali’s FW 23 collection, which explores a universe in which textures, and knitwear in the first place, become the narrative voice to follow.
Suggestions of ethnic nature tell the story by combining different cultures, from Morocco to India, becoming the soul of the garments: long tunic-effect dresses, multi-layered outfits, tricot shirts in powerful chromatic nuances – of greens and purples above all.
Contamination becomes a journey by combining different fabrics or colors. As said, the tricot is the protagonist with its architecture of wool creations.
Midali mixes volumes and fluid shapes, structured outerwear accompanied by soft trousers and skirts. Uncombed wool coats dialogue with very long super-enveloping scarves; hoods sprout on the silhouette and give space to the veiled delicacy of chiffon together with a flash in noble and iridescent velvet.
Midali has three definitions that fit him like gloves: elegant, inclusive, and flattering on every woman.
Highlights from the runway:
Midali social links:
website: Midali
Instagram: @matinomidali_official
Maryling
Maryling is inspired for this collection by an irresistible desire to explore new environments and enjoy different experiences, the reason why it is titled “Hotel MARYLING – room with a view”.
Travel it is, enhanced by the need to connect with others, conceptually translated in the stylistic design proposed for the next cold season.
Great protagonists are the many simple patterns and the combination of color palettes that go from brown to burnt orange with hints of canary yellow and purple.
Monochromatic dresses hit the spotlight, and the sartorial skills of Maryling embrace winter textiles such as cashmere, and mohair.
Not only: the collection is a real manifesto of Maryling style, and the creative director, Israeli designer Avshalom Gur, used the occasion to show the big heart of the brand, sensitive to difficulties all over the world.
Tickets to the show were auctioned on CharityStars. They included the opportunities to both see the runway, and visit the backstage, with a chance to talk to the designer. All to support Save the Children in its work right now in Turkey, a country shaken by a tragic Earthquake.
“Turkey has been a source of inspiration for years,” says Avshalom Gur, “in the last 20 years I traveled there often, discovering good and welcoming people, who introduced me to the many nuances of craftsmanship that builds their cultural mosaic. This Earthquake is unprecedented and has devastated not only Syria and Turkey but the whole world. It’s a time for grief, but it is also a time to help the reconstruction and protect everything that still stands”.
Highlights from the runway:
Maryling social links:
website: Maryling
instagram: @marylingmilano
Oblique Creations
A very poetic title to their collection “a breath that veils the sky”.
The essence of Oblique Creations’ pret-à-porter is enclosed in a rich aesthetic code that connects with the practicality of use of always perfect garments.
Oblique Creations are totally Made in Italy luxury daily wear where knitwear rules. Knitwear that the brand dissects in its extreme versatility and articulates in experimentation of shapes and workmanship with the enhanced charm of femininity.
The FW 23-24 collection is inspired by the magnetic atmosphere and the luminous suggestions of the aurora borealis, a show of lights and natural beauty that becomes a sophisticated framework of lines and colors embellished by a refined design.
An ideal celebration of the Nordic skies illuminated by the polar star transfers lights and shades of dawn into a symphony of emotional nuances.
The motif of the polar star shines in the precious embroideries of the key models of the collection – soft blouses, studied-fit trousers, dresses with versatile silhouettes – in which the essential soul of the brand finds its reason for being.
Highlights from the runway:
Oblique Creations social links:
website: Oblique Creations
Instagram: @obliquecreationsofficial
Paciotti
With the F/W 2023 SHARP collection, the creative team continues the path of enhancing the fundamental codes of the brand, i.e. sensuality, eccentricity and elegance, and does so through the exaltation of sharp silhouettes enriched by new metal accessories.
The approach to feminine structures is characterized by evening models and glam-rock boots, while the masculine narrative is directed towards a new study of formal leather structures mixed with 90s cult models embellished with the iconic logo.
The blunt silhouette “Miley” represents the most feminine and sensual soul of women’s models and is presented in two warm materials, leather and velvet, decorated with clamps with golden blades.
The “Doja” plateau was instead designed in two variants: a more aggressive one with a macro-chain of intertwined daggers and a version covered in lapin.
The common thread of the women’s collection is then the use of paints in a punk key.
The most iconic and recognizable models in the men’s collection are the cowboy boot with silver spur and dagger, and the pointy rockabilly moccasin with a dagger instead of the classic penny; another protagonist of the collection is then the new Harley boot, characterized by the high square leg and metallic leathers.
Among the essentials for men, however, the “Deco 89” structure should be mentioned, with a rubber sole developed on three sinuous steps, the result of updating a historic model from 1989.
Paciotti social links:
website: Paciotti
instagram: @paciotti
Viviers
South African designer, Lezanne Viviers, joined again Milan’s official calendar to present her FW23 KARROO-LAND OF THIRSTS with a live presentation.
On February the 23rd KARROO-LAND OF THIRSTS was showcased with a live event which marked her first on-site event after the digital debut of September.
“Our physical debut at Milan Fashion week, after our digital inclusion, last September, is a new milestone for VIVIERS in Europe. We are overwhelmed with excitement to have the opportunity to let the industry touch and feel and experience our clothes and the hands that created them. We will always attempt to build a brand of strong integrity, quality and inclusivity; through the collaborative hand of our collective, artisanal studio and the numerous amazing collaborators. We hope to let you experience the beauty of our country. We thank all the amazing artisans, our team, our sponsors and our partners who have contributed and made this showcase possible.”
KARROO-LAND OF THIRSTS, FW23/24 is an exploration of the literal and metaphorical, ever-changing landscapes of South Africa, framed through the abundance of raw materials and beauty. The collection quite literally represents the rainbow in ‘Rainbow Nation,’ the nickname that describes the multiracial, multicultural country.
The ‘Karroo’, or ‘Land of Thirst ’in the traditional Khoi-Nama-San language, refers to a very large part of the sub-Saharan desert in South Africa and to what Lezanne find most fascinating about the arid scorched Karoo: the irony and the duality. Most of the warm, cozy and luxurious raw materials (Mohair, Wool, Ostrich Feathers and leather) come indeed from the barrenness of this land of thirsts.
KARROO, ‘Land of Thirst ’finds inspiration in these harsh contrasts: South Africa is rich, with often overlooked, opulent raw materials. Viviers’s collections represent indeed an ode to these sustainable resources which Lezanne believes should be upheld and celebrated by a much wider global audience.
The aim of the collaborative initiative is to showcase the diversity and quality of sustainable and natural fibers from South Africa by presenting a collection of exceptional and artistic clothing made in collaboration with local South African Artisans, with the focus being South African yarns.
VIVIERS FW23 creations feature pure wool, mohair as well as ostrich feathers with the hope for South Africa and Italy to build a long-term trade partnership. Through partnering with Cape Wools SA and Mohair South Africa, this collaboration aims to resurrect and empower the South African textile industry.
Lezanne’s objective is to bring essential fabrics to the luxury fashion market and to showcase the diversity and quality of sustainable, ethically sourced and natural fibers from South Africa and demonstrate how they could be translated into desirable, sustainable collectible garments while empowering South African artists and artisans through a fairtrade system that frees individuals stuck within an unfair supply chain.
Viviers social links:
webisite: viversstudio
instagram: @viviers.studio
