Davis showed Ferragamo’s spring 2027 coed collection at the Triennale Museum in Milan on Sept. 26, drawing on Lee Miller’s Egypt photographs and 1940s uniforms. Safari tailoring, doubled leather belts and Gancini hardware carried the daywear; the eveningwear and a run of translucent rubber sat outside the argument.
MILAN — Maximilian Davis showed फेरागामो‘s spring 2027 coed collection at the Triennale Museum on Sept. 26, in his sixth year at the Florentine house, testing a proposition the brand has not put on a runway in decades: that the 1940s uniform, softened and pulled close to the body, can read as desire rather than duty.
The Collection’s Central Idea
Davis built the season on two references. A Lee Miller exhibition at the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris sent him to the photographer’s years in Egypt; the show notes describe women of the era “taking ownership of their own narrative.” The second was the workwear they wore, from uniforms and nurses’ dress to the decade’s tailoring.
Davis said backstage that the 1940s shoulder was “super structured and rigid.” What replaced it was a rounder shoulder rather than a sharp one, and a waist marked by leather rather than construction.
Silhouette and Styling
The daywear was the collection’s most controlled element. Sleeveless safari shirts and pencil skirts, loosely laced at the sides, opened the argument; a strong-shouldered coatdress set the 1940s frame.
Belts did the work that boning usually does. Davis placed them on raised waists and, in several looks, across the bust, doubling them and threading them through oversized loops. The Gancini clasp closed leather jackets and vests.
Fabric carried the register: sheer silk, napa leather and suede in chocolate brown and olive, croc-effect jackets and translucent rubber trenchcoats.
The House Codes
Ferragamo’s archive is a shoe archive first, and Davis used it. The collection carried new variations on the F wedge, the शैली Salvatore Ferragamo first put into production in 1947, and a fresh reading of the Vara pump – franchise shoes a house can reissue for a decade.
What Worked
The leather vests and pencil skirts were the collection’s strongest passage, and the menswear held its own in a coed show that did not treat the men’s half as an afterthought. Anok Yai closed in a sequin number that gave the show a full stop.
Where It Faltered
The collection carried two origin stories it did not reconcile. Lee Miller’s Egypt points to heat, dust and utility; the 1940s uniform points to the office and the ward. The safari jackets and the nurses’ rubber sit on either side of that gap, and the seams showed mid-lineup, where the desert reference thinned into a color story.
The translucent rubber was the weaker bet: the nurse rationale stretches on a मार्ग, and the pieces landed closer to a material experiment than a कपड़े की अलमारी proposition. The eveningwear also sat outside the daywear’s argument; paillette-studded gowns and sheer draped dresses are a different business from safari tailoring.
The commercial read runs through leather goods and shoes. Ferragamo’s margin lives in the categories the collection handled best: belts, leather vests, the F wedge, the Vara.
A second read is already in the market. The safari shirts and side-laced pencil skirts drew comparison to Tom Ford’s years at Yves Saint Laurent, and the collection arrived in Paris with speculation that Saint Laurent may be weighing a change at the top after Anthony Vaccarello’s decade-long tenure. Davis, who joined Ferragamo in 2022 at 26, has built a case that reads as portable.
That is the tension the show leaves. Davis has made Ferragamo’s archive legible again – the shoes, the clasp, the leather – with a hand light enough to be hired away. The house’s task is to convert the argument into product before it becomes someone else’s.
See the complete collection below:
Images courtesy of Ferragamo
In another fashion week news, Gucci Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection at Milan Fashion Week
