TOM FORD – PRETTY YOUNG THINGS
Indisputably the marquee attraction of this otherwise lackluster New York Fashion Week, Tom Ford commandeered the Park Avenue Armory to unveil his menswear collection first, followed by his womenswear collection a couple of days later. While enough allusions to the city were on display, Mr. Ford’s creations are more thematically attuned to Los Angeles and London. And both collections seemed hell bent on being the Tom Ford-est Tom Ford collections yet.
To wit, there were rapier sharp tailoring, shine and sparkle, dazzling glam rock and Eighties looks, and a palpable undercurrent of sex. Since his seminal days at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Mr. Ford has unerringly deployed those elements to create statement pieces tempered by refined luxury. The conspicuous difference this time around was a deliberate attempt to win over the Instagram selfie crowd. Some of the suits could very well dress Daniel Craig for his next turn as James Bond but most were unabashedly rendered with the youthful indiscretion of glossy pinks and silvers, snakeskin and tiger prints. There were also hoodies, bomber jackets, and slim sweats aplenty. Closing the men’s show with the introduction of the new Tom Ford underwear line, editors questioned the stylistic choice of having the models appear with socks, detracting from the fact they were also sporting the brand’s new timepieces.
A similarly youthful and manic vibe permeated across the women’s collection, replete with neon bright leggings in a menagerie of patterns from leopard to zebra beneath evening jackets and voluminous coats. Though brilliantly tailored, the pantsuits would be a bit much for the boardroom or a charity luncheon. But Mr. Ford seems more invested in reinvigorating what he feels has become a less daring fashion scene. And to that point, these collections should assuredly prompt the social media generation to describe it as being “lit”.