“Domenica”, Sunday, gives the title for the Autumn/Winter Collection by Saint Mariner.
Sunday is the day dedicated to the sun, and it was indeed a sunny Milan that embraced Pietro Sedda’s satellite installation at Palazzo delle Stelline. A six pieces collection revealed behind a black wall in a minimal scenario focused on 6 models standing on grey pedestals and the main stairs on the right wing.
Sunday has given the inspiration for many reasons, one is its inner contradiction: it is the end or the beginning of the week depending on which country you live in. It is the day when you can sit, and think. It’s innerly nostalgic and somewhat romantic. If you look back at your childhood, it was most likely that day when mom and dad made you wear your nice clothes and revealed the plans for that quite different day of the week.
The collection mirrors the intention. It is non hierarchical, coherent seen as a whole but at the same time one piece contradicts the other creating that tension that is inherent with the dichotomy beginning/end. The two combinations of blazers and shorts presented are a very good reminder of those days in the childhood, a spontaneous approach to wearable fashion that combines well with the other pieces. Youthful, with a traditional regular fitting for the jackets.
A special credit should be given to the designer’s strong sense for patterns: good geometry, lines and forms. The six pieces presented are an interesting combination celebrating traveling. Pietro Sedda, the brilliant mind behind Saint Mariner, takes you on a long trip that gives you hints of far away places from Japan to Turkey, moving from monochromatic choices to oversized proportions, without overdoing. More colors appear on the military-ish printed bag and shirt and the green tight with contrasty garments.
Worth mentioning too, it was men’s fashion, but in many cases, the unisex balance so very hard to create would make many pieces adapt well to women as well as men: one for all the kaftan with oversized fitting which also happens to be one of the best pieces seen at this presentation. In the Saint Mariner’s lookbook, photographed by Mustafà Sabbagh, you can find a similar kaftan with a different pattern in blue, on a female model, to enforce the unisex strength of this collection.
The striped cotton and nylon pants look comfortable and soft while the portraits on the t-shirts reminding of Renaissance portraitures, in a blurry or mirrored version mixed with urban elements, are a creative solution chosen by this designer and tattooer from Sardinia and they add a modern twist to the collection.
It was a six pieces presentation that called for a second glance, and all visitors interviewed agreed on this: a six pieces only, it means taking risks, but it is a risk that in this case paid in solid praises. There is absolutely something in it, and if you want to find more and look closer, you can check saintmariner.com
