The Pyer Moss AW16 runway show is a meditation on the tension and mental anguish that exists when conflicting demands are placed on an individual, resulting in patterns of learned confusion in thinking and communication; the ether between opposites.
Fashion’s grueling pace and demands in recent years has been accelerated by the globalization through the use of the internet. The contradiction of exclusivity and democracy within fashion has built a cyclical system of creating notoriety for a designer only to tear them down.
Collaborating with Erykah Badu to style the collection looks, Pyer Moss AW16 was refracted in Badu’s own references and understanding of creativity, materiality and design. Badu incorporated her own personal archives of accessories into the styling of the collection. She also handmade neon colored pins to embellish the hats and key pieces in the collection, referencing the drugs that people use to hide or cope with depression – a running theme of the show. Badu and Jean-Raymond also worked with jeweler Ugo Cacciatori to finish the looks. Palladium footwear was specially selected by Jean-Raymond to finish the looks this season, with masculine, refined black boots paired with collection.
This season, designer Kerby Jean-Raymond explored exaggerated silhouettes with unexpected fabrics. The mix of the two elevated the collection to new heights. Outwear continued to play a key part in the brand’s offerings with alpaca-lined suede motorcycle jackets and floor-length coats. Also working with Baltimore-based artist Maurice Scarlett, this season featured pieces with hand-painted designs. Finishing touches included the phrase “You don’t have any friends in LA” which was inspired from a trip following his last show.