The New York Men’s Day (NYMD) showcase has made it a tradition to lead off menswear season into NYFWM proper. As in previous seasons, several outstanding labels held simultaneous showings at centrally located studios downtown where media, stylists, and buyers were welcome to peruse each collection at their convenience during an allotted time frame. Here are highlights from the presentations:
Krammer & Stoudt
Although artist and designer Mike Rubin’s Krammer & Stoudt swears by its “made-in-New-York precision” manufacturing, the line bears its vintage Southwest spirit with such pride it feels remote from the concrete jungle. Still, that’s probably what makes it so interesting. In “Baja Dreams”, Mr. Rubin explores looks prototypic of subcultures from the region and at home in panoramic deserts, woodland and surf while giving due deference to city dwellers with relaxed jackets and suits.
Private Policy is equally enamored of Western motifs highlighted by traces of Native American elements in its latest vests and jackets. The design team behind the brand built their big picture concept out of the minutiae of “Trinkets” to celebrate Americana with the line’s signature silk wool fabrication, and finished with glam rhinestones. Noteworthy is the integration into the collection of wallet chains with custom charms and hangtags with statements of political whimsy, designed in collaboration with a handful of New York creatives.
The inescapable dark cloud of politics looms larger still, it seems, over Julian Woodhouse’s collection. His perspective seeks a counter revolution to all the strife through a stylistically brighter future. Sporty looks abound as a unifying theme in loose trousers and casual shorts and tops. The unlikely combination of Mr. Woodhouse’s early influences – a military background and Seoul fashion scene beginnings – continues to be apparent in his use of bold colors and architectural proportions.
NYMD also featured the Spring Summer 2018 collections of Bristol, HEAD OF STATE+, Descendant of Thieves, Heliot Emil, Life in Perfect Disorder, R Swiader, and Maiden Noir.
Images courtesy of: Krammer+Stoudt/Wood House by Dan Lecca/Private Policy by Shxpir Huang