MENSWEAR FW 2019 CHALLENGES THE IMAGINATION
It would be far easier to recap the showing of many the for what wasn’t there than for what was. And to that end, it is certainly a measure of relief not to sit through yet another interminable parade of hoodies, sweats, and trendier-than-thou streetwear. Later this year, once it becomes necessary to pack away the shorts and sandals into storage, there are choices a-plenty for assembling the perfect cold weather wear. While these brands carved out their own signature looks, the common denominator seems to be the wearer. That is to say, the designers seem to be urging men to seek out their own style in pieces that advocate personality over trends. And therein lies the challenge that can only be limited by one’s own imagination.
DAVID HART – I WANT IT THAT WAY
David Hart showed a limited set of five looks based on essentials informed by a minimalist attitude. In blacks and tans, Mr. Hart showed relaxed suits, tops, turtlenecks and overcoats. While the devoted fan will likely miss the designer’s uncommon color combinations, be assured the label can custom these silhouettes in other fabrics at the studio. Word at the presentation (and evidenced by the soundtrack) was that Mr. Hart was also channeling 1990’s era boy bands in creating laid-back sophistication.
DESCENDANT OF THIEVES – SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED
Matteo Maniatty and Dres Ladro of Descendant of Thieves served up what had to be among the most lavish range of colors, textures, and patterns in pulling together looks for the confident individualist. According to the duo, the rich legacy of their Bleecker Street flagship served as an inspiration in conceiving the ideal mix of pieces – in gold, rust, rose and earth tones – for the modern day, well-heeled bohemian with touches of faux fur and even military themes. Because the label manufactures in limited quantities, the pieces abet the collection’s concept of distinguishing oneself apart from the hive mentality.
KRAMMER & STOUD – DESERT
Krammer & Stoudt’s spiritual home has always been in the Southwest. For Fall Winter 2019, designer Mike Rubin offers a collection worthy of Don Van Vliet, whose expressionistic art and music made him a cult hero for the California psychedelic scene of the 1960’s and early 1970’s. In color palette, shapes and textures, Mr. Rubin’s pieces recall the rock and roll heydays the Sunset Strip and Joshua Tree while still hitting very modern notes. Today’s men can definitely pick up some pieces here to update their wardrobes with a swaggering edge.
Images /David Hart by David Carlo/Descendant of Thieves by Dan Lecca/Krammer & Stoudt by Michael Mendoza