Katty Xiomara is a Portuguese designer that has filled up the Portuguese Fashion Week calendar since 1998. For Milano Fashion Week she has presented her new fall winter collection for 2019/2020 which is intended to be a tribute to women.
Her starting point is the statement “look to the future”, but to look to the future she considers essential to decipher the clues offered by the past. Progressive for her means also that today would be a void without yesterday’s ideas. “Progressive” describes a reality where past and present are constantly mixed in order to become something new.
The multi-talented designer has been invited to create a capsule collection for Hello Kitty at its 45 years anniversary. Working on this collection she discovered references between the story of Hello Kitty and her own. Specifically, working on the project brought memories to her of her childhood in South America and to a curious plant known as Mimosa Pudica. Pudica means prude and the name derives from the fact that if you touch the plant, it will quickly close its leaves. Connected to this plant there is a legend about a shy girl named Maria that is forced by her parents to hide in the forest to escape a village invasion. Once the turmoils are over, the family goes looking for the girl, but instead of finding her, they find a plant with pink flowers that once touched closes all its leaves rapidly. Her parents hence assumes that the shy plant is in fact their daughter Maria.
There is a strong connection with her collection and this legend. There is a shy side in every woman, and Katty has one too. But she also lives with the benefits from the claims of equality achieved by the feminist movement in the 60ies and 70ies. In order to honour these women the collection reflects longing and gratitude to those women.
And reflections of nostalgia are a main note in every piece, as Katty started realising that what she loved the most about fashion was about to disappear. What made her vibrate about fashion was the fact that buying a dress was a happening, that dresses could last for 20 years and pass from sister to sister. Today it is about consuming far above the needs. Fashion she thinks, should be about producing, seducing and selling by caring about the durability, but merely speaking about sustainability in fashion seems to her ambitious and to some extent utopian. Although she believes that changes can be made in the small things, and re-educate the consumer, turning the same from a consumer to a client.
This is how Maria Reverberada is born: a simple construction cape/cover with the use of 100% fabrics which allows us multiple uses with 3 different positions. The collection is finally a pot-purri of memory from Hello Kitty to Mimosa Pudica, from Maria to the feminist movement in an urge to look to the future recognising what the past has taught us.
The collection shows simple and feminine shapes, with strong colors and mixed materials and textures.