Jil Sander

Resort 2018 Womenswear

Femininity, simplicity, the strength of intimacy. The source of this collection is in everyday life. Uti­litarian objects are transformed into design pieces. A vichy story, with large and small checks in cream, pale blue, cocoa, yellow, and black, translates familiar motifs and hues, warm and comforting, into a statement. Corsetry, a symbol of feminine strength, turns structure into form, shaping jackets and tops: desire, protection and control, but without restraint, off the body. Quilted and striped dimensional skirts float, transforming domestic patterns into light, soft forms.

There is a carefully designed sense of ease. A voice, clear and soft-spoken, sensitive and recognizable among diverging sounds, creates a bottom note that you can clearly hear. The expressions of Lucie and Luke Meier’s Jil Sander are crisp, bold, and aware. Most distinctively their own. The world we need to design for is our life: clothes need to make us feel confident and safe, to enhance our power to enter, individually, into the future.

Now the future is spring: rebirth, growth, freshness, youth, skin. There are shorts, bare arms and legs. Tailoring is presented directly on the skin, representative of a lighter approach but also one that is intimate and caressing. Silhouettes are sharp and in motion; sculptured with folds and creases, animated by malfilé linen/viscose, and pleats. Skirts are worn over trousers. Everything is layered; an invitation to combine garments at will. Volumes are luscious, trousers are comfortable, the mood is relaxed.

White, cream, camel and black, pastel colors. Fabrics that seem solid at a closer look reveal subtle weavings of yarns of different hues. Shirts and shirt-dresses are fluid. Classic coats, long and short, beige or navy and black, are generous, display contrast stitching and magnified checks.

The research of materials is accurate and deep. The synergy between shapes, fabrics, patterns and touch is forward looking. Touching is as important as looking. There is a constant interplay between what is seen and what is felt in wearing a garment. Refined wools, cottons and silks match, and sometimes double, polyester and nylon. Bags are soft and malleable or structured and edged, iconic and functional. A transparent nylon hand-knitted bag transforms the everyday reality into an elevated proposal. Different worlds meet and merge. This is an age of ambivalence: we are multiple, everything changes. The future is us.