HYUN MI NIELSEN Summer Solstice
Nina Simone dressed in a net attire, the golden age of haute couture, folk costumes, punks, Scandinavian Midsummer and 50s pointy boobs. From Hyun Mi Nielsen’s second collection materializes a woman at the intersection of romanticism and the modern world, reflecting upon the plight of contemporary fashion. She is of the new world, yet finds consolation in the old. Similar to the debut collection, a dichotomy between innocence and compelling eroticism is manifest in ruffles, graphic tulle pieces and perforated lattices.
The collection is laced with traces of history. Hyun Mi Nielsen’s nostalgic fascination with haute couture is intact, yet it is marked by a transitioning towards day wear. A trapeze dress with an over- dimensional leg-of-mutton sleeve trailing on the floor is twisted couture. Vintage denim, reworked into a fitted top, bears the marks of history and treats work wear as couture. A large coat with a panel of ruffles at the back combines functional clothing with sculptural surprises. Lattice bell-bottom trousers is a reminder of Hyun Mi Nielsen’s ubiquitous interest in the 70s, whereas patent black trousers, offset by a large white zipper, are sensual and contemporary.
The juxtapositions of work wear and occasion wear in black, ivory, yellow, red and denim blue make the collection both wearable and extraordinary. Classical couture fabrics, including embroidered lace, moire, tulle and taffeta, are counterbalanced with patent black, printed snake and cotton jacquards.
The presentation takes inspiration from Hyun Mi Nielsen’s Scandinavian background. A Midsummer maypole, in all its phallic glory, represents the summer solstice when magical elements are strongest. What is usually a white-dressed ritual of unyielding joy, is in the vision of Hyun Mi Nielsen a gloomy ring dance with a gang of punks.
Accessories for the collection are collaborations with jewelry designer Catalina Brenes and shoe designer Zoe Lee.
Sales by appointment only from 04.07.17. 2nd sales period during Pret a Porter to be confirmed.