Eleventy and Made in Italy: how does it work?


Eleventy and Made in Italy: how does it work?

We will look at some characteristic traits of the Eleventy fall winter collection 2021 to answer this question: have you ever wondered what is the difference that makes the made in Italy so famous for its quality and research?

To read about the fall winter collection in detail, read this other article on New York Style Guide: Eleventy Fall Winter 2021-22 Women’s collection

Visiting Eleventy’s Showroom in Corso Venezia

The interiors of Eleventy's showroom in Milano

We at New York Style Guide were invited to the presentation of the new collection back in February. While waiting for the men’s collection to be presented in few weeks, we decided to give you a different introduction to the women’s apparels, taking the chance of an exclusive guided tour, to present how this collection is made, and using the example of Eleventy, we aim to explain why Italian fashion is known for its care for detail, good quality and portability.

Let’s start with the target:

Who’s the Eleventy woman?

Eleventy: the fall winter collection

Eleventy: the woman behind the style

The collection is designed for cosmopolitan women who have rediscovered the beauty of nature, who want to feel comfortable in both environments, city and nature, and ready for the switch at any time.

It is a woman who loves comfortable, soft clothes, and versatility, but at the same time, she wants to be edgy and proud of her individuality.

The concept of ‘journey’ is the hidden connection that gives meaning to this refined, classy, yet still simple woman. Refined for the Eleventy woman is a word that refers to the quality of the cuts. This is a woman that is never snob, always good in her own skin.

A good mix of masculine and feminine defines the style for the fall winter 2021 Eleventy. Boots are worn under most of the garments. Eleventy women’s style is casual with a modern, tailored aesthetic.

The woman that chooses Eleventy is a woman who uses her clothes to tell something about herself, her style is a portrait of her individual choices.

The inspiration

Here we get closer to see how creating a collection works. Italians are famous for being very consistent in fashion, and the creative part always starts with a great story.

When shaping the idea of the spirit of the collection, designers travel with the imagination, to find an ideal location. The spirit of the ‘journey‘ led us to specific places, and while we talk about the inspiration, we will talk about the color palette. That because Italians are very strong on color combinations, and fashion brands are leaders in creating and reinterpreting color matches.

The way Eleventy imagined this spirit between the city and the countryside, is in British atmosphere and the Scottish highlands.

Let’s give a sneak peek at the catalogue. This is how the palette is created.See how colours are selected and how the British touch is reproduced from sceneries to apparels.

Eleventy fw 21 VENICE44

Eleventy fw 21 VENICE43

Eleventy fw 21 VENICE45

Eleventy fw 21 VENICE46

Colours and effects

Since we were invited and offered a very valuable guide that gave a detailed description of how the apparels are made, to get into details and see how luxury fashion comes to life, and especially what makes the Made in Italy so relevant, we would focus to start with on knitwear and how different colours and effects are created.

The intentions here are doubled and the use of color fulfill two goals:

– create depth and structure;

– give a specific effect;

How does Eleventy create depth and effects with colours?

The research, which reflects also in their jeans production, is to intertwine threads of slightly darker of lighter colors to the main one. This creates interesting reflections when the clothes are hit by direct lights.

But this is only part of the effect. Indeed, Eleventy is able to create metallic, matte, or fluid effects by mixing different fabrics: silk as an example, mixed with other fabrics, like cachemire, creates a more metallic effect.

Here are some example seen in details of the new collection.

grey sweater with threads intertwined to give a more metallic effect
Different fabrics intertwined to give a metallic effect
Golden threads soften and give a golden touch to a yellow kintsweater
Golden threads intertwined give depth to the tints and a soft and shiny effect
Macro of a sweater with intertwined color and fabrics with more blue tones visible
Different colors are intertwined to remove dullness from the main color: you can see blue and purple

Mixing different threads allow to pollute less: instead of going through the long washing and coloring processes to make small changes, tones, tints, and even general effects, arecreated by mixing existing threads.

It is a clever way to create quality and uniqueness.

The same principle applies on white: pattern and thickness are cleverly combined to create variety even on white. Fabrics and patterns are selected and designed in ways that convey different feelings, giving white a structure, creating individuality even in the use of this peculiar color/non color.

Eleventy fw 37Eleventy 06Eleventy fw21 10Eleventy fw 21 04

The cuts

Of course, the difference between a lot of the industrial produced fashion and luxury fashion, is in the tailored cuts that are thought around the real body of a woman.

clothes hanging with an arrow pointing on the tailored partDetail of a bust with cuts that follow the shape of a woman's body

The cuts around the waist and bust of a woman are fundamental for the portability and comfort of women’s fashion. Who more who less, women have forms that clothes should respect. Eleventy, in a very precise and thorough way, tailors tops and bottoms thinking about the portability and confort of women of every body shape and size. To see an example, give a look at the pictures above.

detail ofa cloth's waist
Look in this case at all the cuts along the top and skirt, that together with a measurable belt, form the shape of the body around the waist

Additionally, for the 2021 season, the brand has chosen asymmetry for the style, and added extra pockets right below the knee, to avoid interfering with more sensitive areas of the female body: they are big and useful pockets, but in spots that are comfortable and aesthetically pleasant.

Eleventy fw 21 54Eleventy fw 21 11

Eleventy specifically has collected feedback from their customers since the moment they decided to start a women’s collection. Traditionally, it is born as a men only brand, but they have decided to bring the know-how and sensitivity on both sides of the fashion spectrum. Next paragraph is just about segments of interest.

Eleventy and the international customers

If we look back at the opening picture, the one with the left side of the showroom, you will notice that the mannequin is wearing layered clothes. This addresses mainly to the European and Italian market. There are countries where this is welcomed and considered beautiful. As the guide made us notice, in some other countries layered fashion is weird.

Layered clothes in white as it works best in Europe

On the other side we have sweaters that are thought for the growing interest of the Asian market

sweater with pattern
The feedback from Eleventy’s customers shows that these patterns are favorite in Asia

And even more, for the internet community, the younger instagram lovers, there are sweater with texts, as by request

Sweater hanging with text "chic is..."

For the lovers of details, there are precious inserts and glitter

Eleventy fw 21 50 Eleventy fw 21 51 Eleventy fw 21 21 Eleventy fw 21 22

And finally patterns are revised and recreated individually, here are some examples

Eleventy fw 21 42 Eleventy fw 21 03 Eleventy fw 21 09

The takeaway

Eleventy creates typical luxury made in Italy. In terms of production, it starts with the choice of natural fibres (cotton, wool, cashmere, crepe de chine), then they are treated and combined to give life to colours and effects. The clothes are then tailored around a woman’s body, as much as possible suitable for different body shapes (shapes, not sizes).

Then the work on creating more and more individual repeats on patterns, details, and differentiation by market. Some products start with a specific woman in mind, considering the direct feedback of their customers around the world. It is everything but industrially produced. The care is in every step of the production. Even when creating the portfolio, colours are literally defined by using real scenarios. Now, this does not mean that luxury fashion from other countries is alien to this way of creating. But the way Italian fashion works, and Eleventy above many, is on a maniacal pursuit of female individuality, that is in every sense Italian, yet it is in the way customer first is interpreted, but then proposed in this case in an Italian timeless fashion.

Specifically, the way of treating intertwined colours, is a specific characteristic of Eleventy Milano.

For more information about the brand, here are some useful links:

Eleventy website: www.eleventymilano.it

Eleventy on Instagram: @eleventy_milano

 

 

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